tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-45608557292927116692024-03-13T11:26:34.261-07:00Off Wandering, AgainJanethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-43805752010258130492018-03-28T23:28:00.002-07:002018-03-28T23:28:40.861-07:00A quick Post<span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14.6667px;">I am having trouble with my wifi. All is going well, but cold. Will post as sson as I am able.</span>Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-32662194325795394402018-03-23T01:57:00.002-07:002018-03-23T01:57:56.594-07:00A new journey begins<br />
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<a href="https://wanderingyetagain.blogspot.com.au/?m=1" style="color: #1b0000; text-decoration-line: none;">Wandering Yet Again</a></h1>
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Tuesday, 20 March 2018</h2>
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The journey begins</h3>
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Well I am off yet again. This pilgrimage route is a different one, the Via Romea Germanica, and one I am really looking forward to. It follows the journey made by Abbot Albert from Stade, around 40kms north east of Hamburg, to Rome. Along the way I will be crossing several routes I have taken before, finally joining the Via Francigena for the last few days into Rome.<br /><br />In round figures I am anticipating walking in the vicinity of 2,300kms. From my research I think the first week or two will be quite flat, gradually rising as I move through Bavaria and on into Austria. In Italy the path is flat as I traverse the path around the River Po, before rising steeply to cross the Apennines. From there, heading south through Tuscany, there are numerous hilltop villages - so there will be much up and down.<br /><br />With the weather being somewhat colder than we have had in Australia, I will need warmer clothes and have had to pack a few extras for the cold I am anticipating. This means that my pack is a little heavier than I would like, however once the warmer weather arrives I may be able to post things home and lighten it.<br /><br />It is going to take me a couple of days to rest and recover from the flight and so I will be doing some sightseeing in Hamburg and Stade before setting off. Let the journey begin!</div>
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New blog is here </div>
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https://wanderingyetagain.blogspot.com.au</div>
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Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-78101809712336410532016-11-04T16:24:00.000-07:002016-11-04T16:24:09.368-07:00Santiago de Compostela, & adios<div>
As promised, at the bottom of this post are the places I stayed at and for those who like this kind of information, the cost. Note that the distances given are what I made on my "route tracker" app. As this is not as accurate as the systems surveyors use there could be as much as 10% discrepancy. Distances are from bed to bed too which may affect the final measurement, as does the way I walked to that bed - sometimes on a very circuitous route!</div>
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Well, I have had three lovely days and four nights in Santiago de Compostela, one of my favourite cities. When I left it after my first Camino in 2005 I remember standing in the beautiful Praza Obradoiro, looking at the Cathedral in the pink of a splendid sunrise, and thinking "well it's been great, but I'll never be back here again'. Six visits later, it has lost none of its charm for me, and I have visited for longer, and more often than Sydney!<br />
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<i>Pilgrims contemplating their achievements in the square.</i></div>
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<i>Praza Obradoiro</i></div>
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<i>One of the Cathedral Towers</i></div>
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I was here in June last year, the height of the pilgrim season and so, though busy, things were much quieter, and calmer, this time. For example, getting a seat for the pilgrim mass was possible right up to when it started, whereas in June if you weren't seated 45 - 60 minutes beforehand it was likely that standing was the only option.<br />
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<i>The Botefumero swung at the Pilgrim mass on Wednesday.</i></div>
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<i>The insence hung in the air</i></div>
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<i>This door being open is not a common sight. This year is a holy year and it is only in holy years that the Holy doors are opened. It</i><i> will be closed in around a week, and this door won't be opened again till the next Holy Year in 2021.</i></div>
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The buskers are still in town - an instrumental group, singers, a flautist, a guitarist and of course the gaita players, to name a few. Then, late at night, the Tunas Compeatellanas, a university singing group, perform in the arcade opposite the Cathedral. They perform traditional foot tapping music, using their considerable charms to entertain and extract money as buskers, and for their CD's.<br />
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<i>Tunas Compostellanas are very good at working the crowd.</i></div>
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The past couple of visits I have missed my friend John (for those in the know - Johnnie Walker) because he was out of town. I was successful this time, not only in catching up with him, but hearing him play the organ at Mass, and hearing his friend Stephen sing. I had heard what a wonderful voice Stephen had, but never been fortunate enough to hear him. This time I heard them both, and then had a lovely lunch with them. My bag is now nearly 30 kgs as I have collected 15 kgs of books from John to bring back for the Australian Friends of the Camino.</div>
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This time I stayed in a pilgrim room at the San Martin Pinario. It was here that I met many pilgrims, having met barely any by comparison in the past few weeks. I have spent the past few days with some Aussies, which has been nice. I really enjoyed Ricci and Tim's company and shared a delightful meal with Ricci and her two Irish friends, Wally and Paul. It is simple pleasures like this that one treasures, among the many.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWaJ8Dj4bPBvaBH4_y7XNyOJtN2aO8tNs0km_q5rFEmkl82xYU0hTtCr0RLfHSElnx1-rUm1gOnOgjszYIq53i0x-ASTVbOaScphT1rgZYcxKvjR2JNboTWYXyDHyPBdGOX4p28WAptgi/s1600/20161105061115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWaJ8Dj4bPBvaBH4_y7XNyOJtN2aO8tNs0km_q5rFEmkl82xYU0hTtCr0RLfHSElnx1-rUm1gOnOgjszYIq53i0x-ASTVbOaScphT1rgZYcxKvjR2JNboTWYXyDHyPBdGOX4p28WAptgi/s400/20161105061115.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The far end of this building was a former monastery, now converted to a hotel, with special pilgrim rooms on the top floor.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPty-EsxZN9qVuilKa05V1uejGsfb_nF5by2recTF6rsQtcg7BEKQP-OwCGk-EfZ8s4Qs5bV-6WhAOst72cpMyweOARmk8fqEzFfTcwWgFVoyi6NSFSj_FBVaPRh3_KlD5zOqLjQrSg2DI/s1600/20161102060925.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPty-EsxZN9qVuilKa05V1uejGsfb_nF5by2recTF6rsQtcg7BEKQP-OwCGk-EfZ8s4Qs5bV-6WhAOst72cpMyweOARmk8fqEzFfTcwWgFVoyi6NSFSj_FBVaPRh3_KlD5zOqLjQrSg2DI/s400/20161102060925.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The rooms are simple, but comfortable enough, complete with an ensuite.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp3uoQK1bUPd1wUg4_JcALb7j7iafAgYWXKf05CCxtJriDk3Jykn3RVBNo-L9897HOUeBnvm4vDwn3K4R_N1qQL5hCCSCaHCJVYxgVQggu3o_Jy_LdkIvY7EcDExxc3DLDgtia9LeHfgTL/s1600/20161102060529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp3uoQK1bUPd1wUg4_JcALb7j7iafAgYWXKf05CCxtJriDk3Jykn3RVBNo-L9897HOUeBnvm4vDwn3K4R_N1qQL5hCCSCaHCJVYxgVQggu3o_Jy_LdkIvY7EcDExxc3DLDgtia9LeHfgTL/s400/20161102060529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Waiting at the new pilgrim office to collect my Compostela.</i></div>
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As I write I am sitting on the train to Barcelona, with only one hour to go of a 13 hour journey. Tomorrow I make my way to the airport and within a few days I will see many of you! I am unlikely to be able to use my electronic equipment in Doha and so this will likely be my last post. Thank you to those who have sent me an email, or added a comment. I really do appreciate knowing that the time and effort this takes is appreciated by some! </div>
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This has been a wonderful, different Camino. What, when, where, will the next one be? Who knows!? Watch this space! Till next time, adios.</div>
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<i>A rest stop on the second day of the Camino Invierno.</i></div>
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<u><b>CAMINO INVIERNO</b></u><br />
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<b>Day 1.</b> Thursday 20th Oct. Ponferrada to Borrenes, 22. Kms. Centro de Turismo Rural Cornatel. €40</div>
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<b>Day 2.</b> 21st Oct. Borrenes to Puenta de Domingo Flórez de Valdeorras, 17.3 Kms. Hostal Restaurante La Torre. €34</div>
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<b>Day 3.</b> 22nd Oct. Puenta de Domingo Flórez de Valdeorras to O Barco de Valdeorras. 22.1 Kms. Pensión do Lar €25</div>
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<b>Day 4.</b> 23rd Oct. O Barco de Valdeorras to A Rûa de Valdeorras. 14 kms. Hostal Niza €18. (own shower & basin, shared toilet)</div>
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<b>Day 5.</b> 24th Oct. A Rûa de Valdeorras to Quiroga. 29.5 Kms. Hostal Quiper €17</div>
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<b>Day 6.</b> 25th Oct. Quiroga to Pobra do Brollón. 26.03 Kms. Hostal As Viñas, Dinner, bed & Breakfast €34</div>
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<b>Day 7. </b> 26th Oct. Pobra do Brollón to Monforte de Lemos. 16.7 Kms. Hotel Puenta Romano room + brekky €20</div>
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<b>Day 8.</b> 27th Oct. Monforte de Lemos to Chantada. 32.7 Kms. Hotel Mogay. €33.</div>
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<b>Day 9.</b> 28th Oct. Chantada to Rodeiro. 24.4 Kms. Hospedaxe O Guerra dinner bed and breakfast €32</div>
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<b>Day 10.</b> 29th Oct. Rodeiro to Lalin. 19Kms. Hotel Palacio. Dinner, bed and breakfast €35</div>
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<b>Day 11.</b> 30th Oct. Lalin to Ponte Ulla. 38.6kms. Bar Rios. Dinner, bed & breakfast €27</div>
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<b>Day 12.</b> 31st Oct. Ponte Ulla to Santiago de Compostela. San Martin Pinario €92 (€23 per night - pilgrim room) bed & breakfast for 4 nights</div>
Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-82981726810389468302016-11-02T02:27:00.000-07:002016-11-02T02:27:01.879-07:00Into Santiago de CompostelaLeaving Ponte Ulla for the last days push to Santiago de Compostela began in fog and was quite cool. I crossed back across the bridge to check out what I'd missed, in the dark, the night before. Walking back to collect my pack the young bloke who passed me yesterday zoomed past again, presumably having stayed elsewhere last night. Over breakfast I met an Italian woman and just as she was getting ready to depart who should come along but the "shopping trolley" pilgrim who, I was informed, was a 70 year old Italian, named Paolo. That meant three pilgrims ahead of me, which soon became five, as around the corner I saw my dinner companions of the night before, Goedele and Peter, heading up the hill - a substantial increase in pilgrim traffic for my last day.<br />
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<i>One of the few pilgrims I have seen on this path crossing the bridge at Ponte Ulla.</i></div>
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<i>The little church in Ponte Ulla,</i></div>
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<i>with shells on the bells!</i></div>
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Not only was there a stiff climb out of Ponte Ulla, but the rest of the stage is very up and down, making it a fairly tough final day. Reaching the 13 km to go point I saw the Cathedral towers in the distance, and was breathing a sigh of relief. However, it took hours, in the heat of the afternoon to trudge those last few kilometres, and boy, was I glad to get there!<br />
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This last stage was surprisingly rural, passing little villages, virtually suburbs, but still maintaining the village appearance. It was actually only the last few kilometres that I walked through denser housing.<br />
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I have had particularly good weather these past few weeks. My whiz-bang poncho, bought especially to keep the rain of Galicia at bay, has not been used since the brief shower I had back near Ponferrada! My boots have held up well, though I think I will be leaving them, as much of the tread has gone. So too, my feet have held up well. Dr Google is an amazing help when stuck in a place where it is too difficult to communicate exactly what is wrong. He diagnosed, and recommended treatment for, Achilles bursitis. Ice, exercise, cream - all have held this at bay, as have the exercises recommended for repair of the Achilles tendon. At home I would no more think of using Dr Google, but on the road he has proved to be mist helpful!<br />
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My turquoise shirt is now a funny striped shirt, showing very well the damage the sun can do. It has "fade stripes", due to the continual exposure to the sun, very obviously fading the fabric. Under the straps, and on the back the fabric remains pretty much the bright original colour!<br />
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<span style="text-align: start;"><i>Goedele and Peter heading up what was basically a five kilometre climb out of Ponte Ulla.</i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9VQq8Mh8oaK9E2sdKrJVC28suncRZPRmRrpShV4g_w13Ge5aAnePVLo2NnzUdDGD8OA3cW1_Gn-7tfORNnV7O1H3p8AHsn7A5GtexZKBr_xZz8Svaswb4R_Iw2KhwISHmMRN2iNHwhY1M/s1600/20161102061457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9VQq8Mh8oaK9E2sdKrJVC28suncRZPRmRrpShV4g_w13Ge5aAnePVLo2NnzUdDGD8OA3cW1_Gn-7tfORNnV7O1H3p8AHsn7A5GtexZKBr_xZz8Svaswb4R_Iw2KhwISHmMRN2iNHwhY1M/s400/20161102061457.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The higher I got the clearer it became. Looking back, the hills looked like islands in a sea of mist.</i></div>
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<i>Like many churches and chapel's along the way this one was closed. The people of the village had gone to great lengths to make this a restful place, with benches to rest on and a fountain to get a drink. Note the horreo in the background.</i></div>
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<i>This little Chapel was only about 4 kms from Santiago.</i></div>
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<i>The albergue at A Laxe, at the top of the 5 kilometre hike up from Ponte Ulla.</i></div>
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For several weeks I have been seeing huge pots of chrysanthemums in shops. It seems strange, being from the southern hemisphere where these flowers tend to be synonymous with Mothers Day. It took me a while to work out why they were so prominent. It is because on, or near, the 31st October people spend much time cleaning, tidying, and repairing the graves of their loved ones. They then place flowers, generally a pot plant, on them. The cemeteries I have passed have been particularly colourful in recent days.<br />
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<i>Just one cemetery.</i></div>
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<i>Pots of chrysanthemums (above and below) for sale</i></div>
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<i>The towers of the Cathedral can be seen, but there is still 13 kms of up and down to get there!</i></div>
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<i>They get closer, but still a few kilometres away!</i></div>
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<i>And I made it!</i></div>
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I know there are some of you reading this who would like to know distances etc. Next post I will put that information up. It is quite an exercise accessing good wifi, so it will have to wait until next time.</div>
Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-5777177401794799652016-11-01T04:32:00.001-07:002016-11-01T04:32:10.806-07:00Two long days from Rodeiro to Ponte Ulla.Today I head to Santiago de Compostela, he last day day of a very beautiful way. The past two days have had a few little unexpected treats.<br />
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Leaving Rodeiro, heading for Lalin, I decided I would go the shortest possible way, which was along the service road running parallel to the main road. This, being Saturday, was not as noisy as it might have been and turned out to be an easy walk, a gentle uphill for about 7 - 8 kilometres, and an equally gentle down hill for the same distance into the town. This meant I arrived at lunch time, with plenty of time for chores, a siesta, and a look around the town.<br />
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<i>The town Hall in Rodeiro</i></div>
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<i>On a roundabout in the centre of Rodeiro is a wheel - a wheel of the traditional 2 wheeled Galician cart. Behind this, on the left is a lively little statue of two eldery folk in traditional dress.</i></div>
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Walking this way also meant that, compared to other days when this wasn't possible, I could do a bar crawl! There were a number of bars along the road where I could stop off and get a drink, usually coffee. In the last bar I stopped at, obviously a hub for the village as well as a watering hole for travellers, I met Rachel. She spoke fantastic English and it turned out she had also walked the Camino. She and her friend were heading up to the Alto de Faro for a walk on this morning. Through her, I was able to find out what looked like grass mats hanging on pegs were. It turned out that they were wet weather gear - very ingenious, and probably effective, in times gone by when modern fabrics didn't exist. <br />
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<i>Rachel's friend modelled the tradional rain gear for me. Behind his left shoulder you can see the knee pads that were to keep the bottom of the legs dry when walking through the grass. From memory, I have seen people wearing clogs (wooden shoes on peg ,"stilts") in Galicia too.</i></div>
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<i>Lalin has a lot of special pork dishes and this "monument" commemorates this. Bit bigger than the pigs in Adelaide's Rundle Mall!</i></div>
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I was expecting, and had, a very long day from Lalin to Ponte Ulla (pronounced Ooya). It was long in both distance (around 38kns) and time - I didn't arrive till after dark, walking the last kilometre in total darkness. I was VERY glad to see the bar, where I got a room, on the other side of the bridge!<br />
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<i>I met a couple of blokes out on an evening stroll at the top of this hill. They assured me it was only three kilometres to Ponte Ulla. An hour and a half later, after setting a cracking pace downhill, I got there! They were obviously thinking in the car, or maybe as the crow flies!</i></div>
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About six kilometres from Lalin the Camino Invierno ends, and merges with the Camino Sanabres, the route coming up from the South, having begun as the Via de la Plata. Pilgrim traffic increased markedly, I saw one pilgrim pulling what looked a shopping trolley with his pack on it, but was actually a hi-tech trolley specifically for that task, and one other young man zoomed past me after lunch. Then last night I met two pilgrims based in the UK, and over breakfast an Italian woman.<br />
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<i>The albergue at A Laxe, where the Camino Invierno and Camino Sanabres merge.</i></div>
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<i>Both days I was blessed with sunshine, bordering on too hot, and wonderful views.</i></div>
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<i>Another surprise! Sunday was a hunting day. This was the first group of hunters I came across, then after lunch I could hear gunshots. When I noticed that the path was heading in that direction I decided it was time to put on some hi-vis gear! I rounded a corner, and found a group of hunters chatting, so checked that it was safe for me to continue!</i></div>
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Walking through the forest at one point I became distracted taking photos. I knew there was a Roman bridge somewhere, but I was not prepared for the lengthy stretch of roman road, nor the beautiful location and condition of it. It is extraordinary to think that these still exist after hundreds of centuries, yet so much of our modern infrastructure seems to fail after just a few decades. Granted, the traffic is more dense today, but chariots of old would have been pretty rough too!<br />
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<i>The Roman bridge in the midst of the forest</i></div>
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<i>The stones fit so well and still stand after all this time.</i></div>
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<i>A chariot ride down this road would have been a bit bumpy.</i></div>
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I amw now in Santiago, having started this post several days ago. Will tell you about my last day of walking next time. Wifi has got slower and more difficult the further West I go, so I am now behind in my posts.</div>
Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-4053324367935406172016-10-29T13:33:00.001-07:002016-10-29T13:33:53.368-07:00Monforte de Lemos to Rodeiro.The past two days have been wonderful. The weather continues to be fine, sometimes hazy, but the sun always shining, and the scenery continues to delight. The walking has been strenuous at times, but the sights more than make up for it.<br />
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Thankfully, the dogs have improved, or I should say, the control of them has. The big, scary ones have all been either on a chain, or behind a high fence. I left <b>Monforte de Lemos</b> in fog, but as the day progressed the sun burnt it off and it was a lovely day.<br />
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<i>I wasn't paying attention as I left <b>Monforte de Lemos</b>, and just missed injuring myself on this abnormally low slung overhang!</i></div>
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<i>Looking through the fog.</i></div>
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<i>I met this handsome pair at <b>A Vide</b>, on the way out of Monforte de Lemos.</i></div>
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<b>Chantada</b>, my next stop after Monforte de Lemos, was a beautiful town. The buildings were interesting and the people caring and helpful. My guide notes said it had arcaded streets, and on chatting with the hotel receptionist I learnt that these "arcades" are called <i>soportalis</i> and exist solely so that the home owners can get inside their homes without getting even wetter. He assured me that from October to May it barely stops raining, but, fortunately for me, this is a dry autumn. We also had a chat about my observations that there seems to be more affluence in this part of Galicia. He thought it might be because the rivers have provided work, and made work easier. The rivers provide water for the vines (and these days the electricity) and in the past the water provided the power to work grain mills etc.<br />
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<i><b>Chantada</b>, and one soportalis (right)</i></div>
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<i><b>Chantada</b> (above, and below)</i></div>
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Getting to <b>Chantada</b> was hard work, as I had a couple of big ascents and descents. I had left the River Sil, and this was the day I crossed the <b>Rio Miño,</b> but have now left that far behind too. Approaching the Rio Miño I had to follow a very steep path downhill. It was very rocky, and the way the rocks were arranged so carefully made me think that I was probably walking on an ancient road. Parts of the path hadn't seen the sun all day and so the rocks glistened with moisture, reminding me to take care. The path was so steep that it zig-zagged it's way down the hill, and once over the bridge, the road I chose to follow (less steep) zig-zagged up the hill! Despite the incredible steepness, every available piece of arable land was in use, primarily with vines, but some vegie patches too. The vineyards are terraced, and as I plodded up the hill in the late afternoon, wherever I looked, I could see people out, tending the vines.<br />
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<i><b>Diomondi</b>, at the start of the descent down to the Rio Miño, has a beautiful Romanesque Church, an historical monument.</i></div>
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<i>These bovines watch over one door of the <b>Diomondi</b> church</i></div>
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<i>In <b>Diomondi</b> there were two beautiful horreos.</i></div>
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<i>Just one carpet of chestnuts that I am often having to negotiate.</i></div>
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<i>The only way to access the vines is up steps such as these.</i></div>
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<i>Terraced vineyards, and the last of the zig-zag (downhill) path can be seen cutting diagonally across and down.</i></div>
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<i>Looking down on <b>Belesar</b>, on the Rio Miño. Note the terraced vineyards behind.</i></div>
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I was a bit weary arriving in Chantada, and after dinner went straight off to bed, leaving my exploring till the following morning. I also did a bit of unplanned exploration, as my notes and the signs didn't quite match, but a second breakfast, and a closer look at the map got me sorted, until lunch time! The day began with a slow, steady ascent, which escalated to a much steeper one some nine kilometres later. This was so that the Alto de Faro could be climbed, which is, I am informed, the geographical centre of Galicia. The views from the top were stunning. The <b>Ermita de Nosa Señora do Monte do Faro</b> is near the top of this climb, in the middle of a clear field. I sat there, alone, amidst the blooming crocus, with magnificent views wherever I cared to look and ate my lunch. I could hear no sounds, except for a bee buzzing amongst the crocus. <br />
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<i>A horreo (used for storing grain) in <b>Penasillás</b>, on the way to <b>Alto de Faro </b>- a five kilometre climb is about to start!</i></div>
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<i>Tackling the last bit of the climb up Alto de Faro.</i></div>
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<i>Ermita de Nosa Señora do Monte do Faro.</i></div>
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<i>The cruceiro with the Ermita in the background.</i></div>
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When it came time to push on I had my first real "don't know" moment on this journey. I couldn't find any yellow arrows, only a mojón pointing down the hill. I went that way briefly, it felt wrong and so I climbed back up to check I hadn't missed anything. Still no joy, and so climbed the few metres to the top of the Alto, and again, no joy! I consulted Google maps and decided that I would forgo the Camino and make my own way to Rodeiro where I planned to spend the night. The route it took me was on tiny little tracks, and with no uphills to speak of. At one point, in the distance I could hear a dog/s barking, and was a little fearful. As I approached the small hamlet, the dogs let loose, and were loose, but fortunately their masters were sitting on a wall having a late afternoon natter. I stood still and waited for things to calm down, had a chat to the two men and a woman, and headed off to Rodeiro, reaching my destination about a half hour later.<br />
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<i>Looking down from the Alto to the Ermita, where I had my peaceful lunch break.</i></div>
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<i>The path that Google maps took me down - very steep, and very rocky. It was slow work until I got to the bottom!</i></div>
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Santiago is close. I will be glad to reach my destination and stop, but sad too that I will have no more walking to do. That is always the way!<br />
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<i>I am now well past this marker (at the start of the descent at Diomondi), but it is nice to see one not spoilt with graffiti!</i></div>
Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-44146062692327464472016-10-26T14:27:00.001-07:002016-10-26T14:27:15.688-07:00GaliciaGalicia has a very distinctive smell, which until about two days ago my nose hadn't detected, on this trip. Two days ago, as I approached the town of Quiroga, where I planned to spend the night, I knew I was truly in Galicia - the smell was there! It is the smell of hay mixed with animal waste, the smell of sileage in the hot afternoon sun, the smell of cows, and of slurry! It is distinctive, and nowhere else in Spain have I found that smell to such a degree.<br />
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Until now, I have been passing industries such as slate factories, and vineyards - wine is very important in this region. Now I am seeing (and smelling) more and more dairy farms. Along with this kind of farming is an increasing danger - DOGS! These are VERY big, VERY loud, and VERY scary!! Those who know me, know I'm not really an animal lover, and my experience with the dogs here has put me off them forever!!!!! <br />
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The little yappers are ok, as are the big woofers - when they are safely locked inside a yard. It is the big woofers, not chained or locked up, who suddenly appear out of nowhere, barking and growling ferociously that are VERY scary. I had three dog episodes yesterday, and each time the owners were around to take charge. There were two little yappers and their master stopped the car and kept commanding them until I had gone past and a kilometre or so further on three small "ponies" came at me! Fortunately the farmer was there and so I just stood still until they were called back into line. I met those three again, 15mins later, as they worked with the sheep and goats the farmer was moving. They were OK then, trying to head-butt me to move along with the sheep!<br />
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<i>After my "dog episode" I took some time out, only to hear the bells, and this herd turned the corner.</i></div>
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<i>The biggest dog was the one on the left of the black dog. It seems to be a common breed here.</i></div>
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Today's dogs - a different story. I missed a sign and was looking for it when I got bailed up by a couple of dogs. I adopted my usual strategy of standing still in the hope that someone would appear, but the only thing that did was three more dogs. Walking slowly and steadily forward (I thought forward was a better way to go than retreating), I decided that I didn't really need to find the sign! The dogs continued barking, and I cut across a paddock with the aim of heading along the road, but not so. A glance down the road showed three of my tormentors ranging along the road just waiting for me! I decided retracing my steps along the road was the best (a 2km detour) way to go, but even this was not hazard free as another dog came out of a farm at me. Having said all that, I eventually arrived at Monforte de Lemos - supposedly only 12.5 kms, but with my detours 4 kms further!<br />
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This is a beautiful town. It boasts a Parador (a chain of luxury hotels in converted monasteries and the like). I could have stayed there for €85, but have chosen to stay in the Hotel Puente Romano for €20, with breakfast thrown in because I'm a pilgrim!<br />
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<i>Looking towards the Puenta Romana</i></div>
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<i>My hotel is the white building, and on the hill behind is the Parador.</i></div>
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<i>The Parador (above and below) in Monforte de Lemos sits atop a hill, overlooking the whole town.</i></div>
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It seems to me that this part of Galicia is a more affuent than its more northern counterpart. The houses are big, often rendered, and brightly painted, frequently with a bigger yard, often with very impressive vege patches. They often have tiled entrances, numerous pot plants on display, with small balconies and large windows. The streets are impeccably clean, though cows are around, there is not much manure in evidence - sometimes on the Camino Frances one is in great danger of slipping on the deposits!<br />
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<i>This little Cappella is dedicated to Santa Barbara. In all the times I have been to Galicia, I have never seen inside one of these tiny churches, until this day. The Señora (below) opened it for me. We had a chat - she has had knee surgery, so she could never walk the Camino!</i></div>
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By the same token, there are an amazing number of very old traditional houses. I have often walked past what I have thought is an old wreck of a house, only to be surprised that at the back, or side, there is evidence that it is still a lived in residence. One village I walked through had such narrow "streets" I could have stretched out my arms and touched both sides at once.<br />
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<i>The houses on the left are lived in, and underneath the verandah is the lavadero público.</i></div>
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<i>I've gone under quite a few rooms built across the roadway.</i></div>
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There have been some long days, and there a couple more to come, but the scenery has more than made up for it. There a couple of days of ups and to come so there will be more views in store.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_9tUhL8WiVYC-kaMelDbGgOq-b2DtumAarbspoe9spgkgh1G4fABvSSFIKsBz-mGXuT6f-mmU8bbz-pC6Z0W77WPtEIXWzxIYyWxpYRXmuhFOSsB_N2YuhRHTsm4x3lVfeedpMWi9ydg1/s1600/20161025051136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_9tUhL8WiVYC-kaMelDbGgOq-b2DtumAarbspoe9spgkgh1G4fABvSSFIKsBz-mGXuT6f-mmU8bbz-pC6Z0W77WPtEIXWzxIYyWxpYRXmuhFOSsB_N2YuhRHTsm4x3lVfeedpMWi9ydg1/s400/20161025051136.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Just some of the views. Leaving A Rûa de Valdeorras.</i></div>
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<i>The River Sil, and in the distance the white buildings of Quiroga.</i></div>
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<i>The River Sil, not long after leaving Quiroga.</i></div>
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<i>Looking over Montefurado.</i></div>
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<i>Looking over a portion of Monforte de Lemos.</i></div>
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<br />Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-31471309884222405512016-10-23T09:48:00.000-07:002016-10-23T09:48:07.695-07:00The Camino Invierno.I left Ponferrada late on Thursday morning. Late, because I had to do some shopping. I was only two days away from Galicia, and this is a province famous, among other things, for the volume of rain that falls. My shopping was for a special poncho "just in case" - added protection in addition to my raincoat. I walked all around the city searching, and in the fourth store had success. Now I can face all weathers!<br />
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<i>I had just got off the train and was headed for my hostal - giving the albergue a miss as I needed to sort all my gear at leisure.</i></div>
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<i>Ponferrada is famous for its Templar castle.</i></div>
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It was easy leaving Ponferrada, following the signs, though one man stopped me to make sure I was going on the right path. I am on a "road less traveled" as the Camino Invierno heads south briefly before turning and heading to Santiago more or less parallel to the much busier, and known, Camino Frances.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicXA-SlEATRl38BcPCfl5MqEua9v9AjOmB7Fou4fop6-ZLUZodjjy__LhpVZnDBlSc_Cz0gnZBSse56uh2N1SUtGhSm0jh4Eo3be2vmkGDs3NVYgJXt20hRvV11V9xs0SPMIKSr1G94tes/s1600/20161021044450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicXA-SlEATRl38BcPCfl5MqEua9v9AjOmB7Fou4fop6-ZLUZodjjy__LhpVZnDBlSc_Cz0gnZBSse56uh2N1SUtGhSm0jh4Eo3be2vmkGDs3NVYgJXt20hRvV11V9xs0SPMIKSr1G94tes/s400/20161021044450.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i>I only followed these mojóns for two days.....</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkcFmeb_5wPfOYG2hBFnjSEvl82EBABkSUtTOU9ecGhWsW53VhfhMNztj363kYALaTzBLQwoDCIAL2k3BxE6f2zUJOi2qvsCi6_azNbRk47gzKI8hyphenhyphenuAALxRYiNGrNjdrcr61tkRJdwNDZ/s1600/20161023041247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkcFmeb_5wPfOYG2hBFnjSEvl82EBABkSUtTOU9ecGhWsW53VhfhMNztj363kYALaTzBLQwoDCIAL2k3BxE6f2zUJOi2qvsCi6_azNbRk47gzKI8hyphenhyphenuAALxRYiNGrNjdrcr61tkRJdwNDZ/s400/20161023041247.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i>..... as now that I'm in Galicia these are what I follow.</i></div>
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My first night was spent in a lovely little village called Borrenes. I stayed in a very spacious Casa Rural and crossed the road to the bar for dinner, which my hostess also runs. The next morning it was her husband who served me breakfast, telling me that the following morning he was walking on the same route as me. He got me to sign a special pilgrim register which had started in June this year. I was pilgrim number 232 who had stayed there since then. After taking my photo he waved me off - only to greet me the next morning at breakfast! He was one of about 30 Amigos walking about 30 kms together that day. They departed before me and were going a lot further, so I didn't see them after that.<br />
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It has been a lovely few days looking out over panoramic vistas dotted with yellow, and occasionally red, autumn leaves. I have at times been walking on carpets of golden leaves. There has been plenty of places to rest too, as the Xunta has provided, at the most scenic spots, a picnic area with tables and benches.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX0XGCoskrHtsqmWIOKnW7puXaGP-F-U47b2ZenRwy7mK7m3dbjgGERDWZ2jQrD9qpQrcygUCJnR2_te8Zi_AWZWXQh0kfppThdtwNGzA2cZWoerogBFnLCBAwcnMxxb1-zjN60Lq3QBkJ/s1600/20161021044146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX0XGCoskrHtsqmWIOKnW7puXaGP-F-U47b2ZenRwy7mK7m3dbjgGERDWZ2jQrD9qpQrcygUCJnR2_te8Zi_AWZWXQh0kfppThdtwNGzA2cZWoerogBFnLCBAwcnMxxb1-zjN60Lq3QBkJ/s400/20161021044146.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The path soon after leaving Ponferrada.</i></div>
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<i>Autumn leaves, approaching A Rûa de Valdeorras....</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieC1mC0x-FwXrZXNhGRCceIDLah7lHWD-jHkYIL_U9bOL4P8YIQzFmNwwbBrCzoknoOXkOrK8sdEDtxflZKy-Y1NEauJmPiQheLWfS5VaVebp0Sv3ljcii4hojWskuTaElQJkWJsEZRfvp/s1600/20161024004354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieC1mC0x-FwXrZXNhGRCceIDLah7lHWD-jHkYIL_U9bOL4P8YIQzFmNwwbBrCzoknoOXkOrK8sdEDtxflZKy-Y1NEauJmPiQheLWfS5VaVebp0Sv3ljcii4hojWskuTaElQJkWJsEZRfvp/s400/20161024004354.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>......and the night before along the river park in O Barco de Valdeorras.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL2BF_x7-Y9Hj_49gBFXxa53L0RsULeYGSKKigOgl5uOcS7iFPhrkhe8r1Q1fbFxnIxlMC2clC4pxzfABSsGznQ82fszlHXI4lUNbT5ap6VluYup-bO24luMZZEXuS8x4wZcwy8cf3Yuud/s1600/20161023042426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL2BF_x7-Y9Hj_49gBFXxa53L0RsULeYGSKKigOgl5uOcS7iFPhrkhe8r1Q1fbFxnIxlMC2clC4pxzfABSsGznQ82fszlHXI4lUNbT5ap6VluYup-bO24luMZZEXuS8x4wZcwy8cf3Yuud/s400/20161023042426.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>A "prickly pear" crop on the approach to O Barco de Valdeorras.</i></div>
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The first day of walking I had a steepish climb, one I had intended to avoid, but, due to a momentary lapse in concentration, was over half way up when the Penny dropped and so it was just as easy to continue. If I hadn't lost my concentration and climbed the hill on that first day out, I would have seen none of this. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH3_FEUYdWqjWn5X2_HXbWBvtOu5zyehXhlj3hI2hay5XOOCMBOnjnWuYEhw_NsG3T-F74UBB5nITL4lp0JLpzxVXskWDNlqsh6GgISc6u5wJsVjrA86GdI0TzKZ6AKbeLYPorSgSFFllk/s1600/20161021043713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH3_FEUYdWqjWn5X2_HXbWBvtOu5zyehXhlj3hI2hay5XOOCMBOnjnWuYEhw_NsG3T-F74UBB5nITL4lp0JLpzxVXskWDNlqsh6GgISc6u5wJsVjrA86GdI0TzKZ6AKbeLYPorSgSFFllk/s400/20161021043713.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>I thought this old cart was no longer in use, but then I saw the tyres. It looks to me as if it is ready to use.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-dw6urRy4oElP24aWd8yUpFJRIFZBvH1Vj6tIfEG-fiaA9kEy83APMiBkWNG5x3sQJVr2VZF1gX0r9hzgr7GUQ4OVDoTxi1nmulNrXY1n271X1F4kzEBwUMygOfAjkfqOIb73TOo8QrVN/s1600/20161021043423.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-dw6urRy4oElP24aWd8yUpFJRIFZBvH1Vj6tIfEG-fiaA9kEy83APMiBkWNG5x3sQJVr2VZF1gX0r9hzgr7GUQ4OVDoTxi1nmulNrXY1n271X1F4kzEBwUMygOfAjkfqOIb73TOo8QrVN/s400/20161021043423.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The rock fall (bottom right) has made this rock face appear like a giant slippery dip. Just around the corner I met a young Swiss chap. He was camping, and had been very sick the night before. He was very nervous because he could hear boar all night and knew he was too weak to run in the event of an attack. I haven't heard them, but have seen diggings.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVbq_mJBkWut1UpPt6CSILmWyRAKVuDjn9T7QFPVAI03l54KNlTr_Mtg0QoAI2dxB4VefWcuEMSQNRLPOl2QMj2-NL5EGw3BK2948SmZMkDZ9Hm34catZ7Lz35K3-K22u05-zhlDgxihw2/s1600/20161021043550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVbq_mJBkWut1UpPt6CSILmWyRAKVuDjn9T7QFPVAI03l54KNlTr_Mtg0QoAI2dxB4VefWcuEMSQNRLPOl2QMj2-NL5EGw3BK2948SmZMkDZ9Hm34catZ7Lz35K3-K22u05-zhlDgxihw2/s400/20161021043550.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i> The village of Villavieja was, in medieval Times the service village for the serfs who worked at the Castillo</i><i> de Cornatel.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEillAh1y4WJAfxd35Gee7tRCOGviBnQM3g9-dzeI6kLjd9f9N15jH9QNDEJDH-nqKQkhu0mtBH9F5q0dQweXiCMVUQMBCAQGtWzDY4Hatoknt2-v_0YC2tj0RYbs2ZfLri-FN9Qm15ipagM/s1600/20161021043200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEillAh1y4WJAfxd35Gee7tRCOGviBnQM3g9-dzeI6kLjd9f9N15jH9QNDEJDH-nqKQkhu0mtBH9F5q0dQweXiCMVUQMBCAQGtWzDY4Hatoknt2-v_0YC2tj0RYbs2ZfLri-FN9Qm15ipagM/s400/20161021043200.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i> The Templar Castillo</i><i> de Cornatel (above & below) on its craggy outcrop.</i></div>
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<i>Two Señora's who quizzed me, and cheered me, as I entered the village of Borrenes.</i></div>
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Accommodation has been interesting on this leg, decreasing in price with each night! My most expensive night was the first one at €40, then the next night the owner made me cancel my €45 booking so that he could give me my own pilgrim room at €34, then last night I had a room in a pension for €25, and tonight it is €18. I suspect that is as low as it will get unless I happen to chance on a pilgrim albergue.<br />
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The second day, was relatively easy, but quite fascinating. I had no idea about the history of this region, nor of the formations that kept drawing my eye. This was Las Médulas - huge red formations thrusting up from the surrounding green. Tourists flock here, and even though the season has finished there was still a steady stream. <br />
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<i>Las Médulas</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbCNDBiEd3TtH1q-LtkYlgIIgVEY5lslrU39Y0Yqs2FTmdSMmK7w8O1ZFrFXUBPFyqCw6jpsgQFCJyXmaKsQeoYhYWDIBB2qv-r9MrGZ-w56_dNs7HAGgFy3liCfEWuY5Oy3IV4kWiTClz/s1600/20161023035405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbCNDBiEd3TtH1q-LtkYlgIIgVEY5lslrU39Y0Yqs2FTmdSMmK7w8O1ZFrFXUBPFyqCw6jpsgQFCJyXmaKsQeoYhYWDIBB2qv-r9MrGZ-w56_dNs7HAGgFy3liCfEWuY5Oy3IV4kWiTClz/s400/20161023035405.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i>A view from the village itself</i></div>
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<i>This whole area was mined (Gold) by the Romans. There are piles of rocks all around the place, and a bit further on I could see a hillside glistening in the afternoon sun. This wasn't old piles of rock though - it was new works and I think it was slate - the whole hillside.</i></div>
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<i>Looking back at Las Médulas - I couldn't help but keep turning back to admire the view!</i></div>
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I am now in A Rûa de Valdeorras, a small town on the River Sil. For the past few days I have been following this River, walking past colourful vineyards and through ancient villages. I have also been walking past a number of slate factories, one today having box upon box of slate tiles wrapped and stacked around its yard. Piles of broken slate are a common sight too. <br />
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<i>Bee keeping is a traditional industry in this area and has been for many centuries.</i></div>
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For days I have been walking past laden chestnut trees. The "furry" casings surrounding the nuts make a carpet on the ground, sometimes empty if someone has harvested them, otherwise the nuts scatter across the ground too. I have passed men harvesting the crop, on hands and knees, as they fill plastic bags with the precious crop. The trees are sometimes planted as if in an orchard, and at other times I come across them in the middle of the scrub, thick bush all around, except for the area surrounding the tree, the ground having been carefully raked. The size of the trunks of some of these trees is huge, and of course there is a corresponding age to them - one man told me they were "many years old". Sometimes I have seen people heading out to harvest them. The other day "mama and papa" were returning on a little tractor doing about 5 kms an hour. He steered, and she clung on at the back clutching a bucket and a stick of about 3 - 4 metres in length, presumably used to reach the highest fruit.<br />
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<i>The guard rail in the corner should help you see the size of this tree - not the biggest I saw either.</i></div>
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<i>A chestnut tree in the scrub, VERY thick, except for the patch surrounding the tree.</i></div>
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<i>Mama & papa returning from the morning harvest.</i></div>
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I trust you find this as interest as I have. This is truly a beautiful way, and I suspect that the Caminioites out there who haven't though about this way, just might give it some consideration. You could do worse. Until next time......<br />
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Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-9131513914444921852016-10-21T14:11:00.000-07:002016-10-21T14:11:26.721-07:00Barcelona, and some rest!In Barcelona we did quite a bit of sightseeing, but we managed to turn some of that sightseeing into a rest as well! Pam and I bought a 2 day hop on /hop off bus ticket, and apart from hopping off to visit the Sagrada Familia and Park Güell we spent the time up on the top deck just listening to the audio and looking. We did though, do some walking, up and down <i>Las Ramblas</i>, a famous pedestrian street that stretches from Catalunya Place to the sea. On the Sunday when we arrived it was jam packed with wall to wall people. It was hard work negotiating it with our packs on as we headed to our hotel.<br />
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Julie and I spent a delightful hour or so just before Jim arrived on a guided tour of Palau de la Música Catalana. This is a magical building devoted, not only to Catalan music, but to music of all cultures and styles. The mosaics, the carvings, the light shining through the glass make this a very beautiful building indeed. To either be a performer or an audience member must be a real treat.<br />
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<i>Mosaic......</i></div>
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<i>......and glass.</i></div>
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<i>Just one of the muses who are forever on stage performing.</i></div>
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It was lovely to meet up with Jim, Julie's husband later that day, and on Tuesday morning we all met at the Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's amazing Church, begun in 1882, and yet to be completed. Despite the huge crowds, it is still possible to appreciate the simple serenity of this place. It is a place of soaring columns, diverse angles, sweeping curves, and light of all colours, as the sun shines through the stained glass windows.<br />
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<i>Gaudi's Sagrada Familia - column's, angles, and light.</i></div>
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<i>The stained glass had the names of sacred places around the world. Many pilgrims start their Camino at Roncesvalles, and we visited Arantzazu on the Camino Ignaciano.</i></div>
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After farewelling Julie and Jim, Pam and I headed up to Park Güell. Here we found that we had a three hour wait to get into some of the Park, and so we opted for a walk in the gardens, which we enjoyed immensely.<br />
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<i>Park Güell - what we did see as we wandered around the garden,........</i></div>
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<i>.......and what we couldn't see up close!</i></div>
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I have told you about the two highlights of the day, but the evening brought another treat for me. I had only just said to Pam that I regretted not seeing any castle building (I'm not sure she knew quite what I meant), when, as we walked back to our room past a school, I caught something interesting out of the corner of my eye. I asked if we could go in and watch, and we were then treated to a number of catles being built! This was the Colla (Club) Castellers de Sants and they were rehearsing (a twice weekly event). If your interested check them out on face book. Castle building is a Catalan custom begun back in the 1800's, though now there are around 80 clubs throughout the world. We spent nearly an hour watching, and if I hadn't needed to make an early start the next day I would have stayed longer.<br />
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<i>Building a castle. The waistband is a long, wide strip of fabric which is wound tightly around the midriff with the aim of preventing muscular, bone, and spinal injuries. Every person plays a role in either building, or supporting the castle. The back of the waistband also acts as a step on a ladder as those doing the climbing hook their toes in. The younger ones use the calves as a step on the ladder too. The wee one we saw climbing right to the top was five years old!</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY5KvR691TvOFZYxMc7e2R-FRpfyo3kdYGyViGBNDc46MNDLpn3ECH6pxT3g7y27ht4GG7rXOLpbJe-JV1kQomh-f2gca0vP2zQLZ0wYhYAhx8oZL7ikEuW6brGM39aJA1QQ3lR7XRTyde/s1600/20161019181109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY5KvR691TvOFZYxMc7e2R-FRpfyo3kdYGyViGBNDc46MNDLpn3ECH6pxT3g7y27ht4GG7rXOLpbJe-JV1kQomh-f2gca0vP2zQLZ0wYhYAhx8oZL7ikEuW6brGM39aJA1QQ3lR7XRTyde/s400/20161019181109.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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On Wednesday I caught the train to Ponferrada - a very enjoyable nine and half hour journey. It gave me a chance to rest my foot for another day. I have now been walking on the Camino Invierno for two enthralling days, but that will have to wait until next time. I am now on my own, as Julie has gone off holidaying with Jim, and by now Pam should be back home, with a steadily improving knee. I miss their company, but people are amazingly warm and friendly on this route, though fellow pilgrims are scarce. Since leaving Ponferrada I have yet to see another pilgrim. More next time.<br />
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<br />Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-33273212210516473462016-10-21T11:07:00.002-07:002016-10-21T11:07:34.984-07:00Manresa continuedI am now behind in my posts, but I think my photo loading problem has sorted itself, so will continue where I left off last time.<br />
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As I mentioned previously, Manresa is the final destination of those on the Camino Ignaciano. It is a place that I had never heard of until I began planning this Camino, but I have since discovered that it is a place jam-packed with history. History with its association with Saint Ignatius, but lots of medieval history too. Of course we visited the places associated with Ignatius - places like the cave where he wrote his Spiritual exercises, the old bridge he crossed, and the wonderful museum/gallery that conducted a musical spiritual exercise for pilgrims to participate in.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXllSCMW7vok7C7XtXOp5saBPmmMJrJcVLzoGqSWOzEC5crjsOqN75IIz4RfkZaAvaB9Bje42mtEneP0YmP6PisGSPy2wfadpnxOnTG7BAbrsoVxj7Jqcsp4aSvc7AVwLJnYhhpgtu3rTp/s1600/20161015215335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXllSCMW7vok7C7XtXOp5saBPmmMJrJcVLzoGqSWOzEC5crjsOqN75IIz4RfkZaAvaB9Bje42mtEneP0YmP6PisGSPy2wfadpnxOnTG7BAbrsoVxj7Jqcsp4aSvc7AVwLJnYhhpgtu3rTp/s400/20161015215335.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Interestingly, the cave is now topped by a huge edifice! Here you can see the "cave" underneath the building, and the building above contains a large church, then above that is a museum.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjix6SXMuzATs2J34k-VUTvZQz2sWJoBJWAGpLIPcUh_pWihBq9lcy6JJo5hNNg5GONNWt7hN12qQ8qkrNAw20i3sp_fMukR6plOwmYO8kvsDjjnnB3AdbrXCmExuHlbh8DynIWHN-IWew_/s1600/20161015215204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjix6SXMuzATs2J34k-VUTvZQz2sWJoBJWAGpLIPcUh_pWihBq9lcy6JJo5hNNg5GONNWt7hN12qQ8qkrNAw20i3sp_fMukR6plOwmYO8kvsDjjnnB3AdbrXCmExuHlbh8DynIWHN-IWew_/s400/20161015215204.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i>This is the interior of the cave, now more like a small Chapel.</i></div>
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<i>One view of the Basílica in Manresa.</i></div>
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<i>The famous Pont Bell (old bridge) of Manresa, with the Basílica in the background.</i></div>
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<i>This is the symbol, adopted in Catalunya, of the Camino Ignaciano.</i></div>
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<i>I have mentioned, and shown photos of the huge puppets, known as the Giants, that seem to appear in most fiestas. I had to enlist Julie's help to show you how big they are. Someone gets inside these and carries them. No mean feat!</i></div>
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<i>I'm not sure if these are Giants or not - as you can see, they are not small, nor pretty! All of these were on show in the pilgrim office.</i></div>
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We also, in between frequent rests at bars along the way, visited the medieval street, which amazingly has survived the ravages of time. A visit to this was enhanced by a particularly good audio visual as well.<br />
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<i>The medieval street, narrow, dark, and dingy, probably why it has survived intact. </i></div>
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<i>A wall in the medieval street.</i></div>
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<i>This is just how we felt! That morning Julie said her legs felt like lead! We had finished our Camino and that's how we all felt!</i> </div>
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<i>The Camino Ignaciano completed, packed and ready to depart Manresa for Barcelona (by train!). Pam, Julie, Janet.</i></div>
Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-5319135218252951122016-10-17T13:58:00.000-07:002016-10-17T13:58:02.430-07:00The two M's - Montserrat & ManresaStaying for an extra night in Montserrat was a real treat. We woke to clear skies, but with a rising mist coming up from the plains. Once the sun came out though the mist burnt off and we had clear skies for many hours.<br />
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It is very special to see a place such as this absolutely teeming with people all day long, but then in the late afternoon seeing the mass begin to diminish to a trickle by the evening. To stand outside the abbey, where it is difficult to move without bumping into someone during the day, and have only stillness and silence, broken only by pealing bells is indeed special. Not many get to see and feel the peace and tranquility of such a place in this way and we were very blest to have this experience.<br />
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Everywhere we looked we had extraordinary views. We looked up and could see the towering mountains behind, we looked down and saw the little dots of villages sprinkled across the valleys, and looking out we saw the city of Barcelona and the sea beyond. What views!<br />
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<i>An early morning view from near the abbey</i></div>
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<i>Looking up to the mountains behind, which we went up via the funicular. We had an apartment for two nights in the yellow building in the distance.</i></div>
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We took the funicular railway to the top of the mountain, where we strolled around further and had even more spectacular views to feast our eyes on. It is amazing to think that hermits built dwellings up here, and lived through all weathers, year in year out. One can only admire these men who had such Faith and fortitude to live in such adverse conditions.<br />
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<i>The funicular track can be seen heading straight up the mountain.</i></div>
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<i>The ascending (left) and descending (right) funicular caboose.</i></div>
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<i>The workings of the funicular.</i></div>
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<i>Steps leading up to where the restaurant was. (See next photo)</i></div>
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<i>The remains of a building that used the rock as part of it. A restaurant was built near here early last century. Doesn't exist anymore, can understand why when you see how hard it is to get there.</i></div>
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<i>A little Chapel on the path on the mountain path.</i></div>
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<i>The view of the Abbey from the top of the funicular.</i></div>
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<i>Julie, Pam and Janet on the terrace near the funicular.</i></div>
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Later in the afternoon we caught the rack rail to Monistrol de Montserrat. From there we caught a train to Manresa, the last town for the Camino Ignaciano. It was a real contrast to a few days earlier when we had walked into town drenched. We had a real treat by staying in a wonderful apartment, where our host provided breakfast both mornings for us, along with a supply of cold drinks and best of all, a washing machine! More next time.<br />
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Something has happened to the tablet. I can still type but cannot add photos at presen. I do want to show you Manresa, but that will have to wait I am afraid. At present we are in Barcelona, having spent the day sightseeing, as we will do tomorrow. Some things have changed though. Julie's husband, Jim, arrived today and the four of us had dinner together tonight and tomorrow we are off to visit the Sagrada Familia. On Wednesday Jim and Julie head off on a holiday together, I head to Ponferrada, and Pam is heading home. She has had a tough time with her knees and feels that she needed to rest them and decided that it was best to head home early.<br />
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Hopefully the next time I post there will be photos.Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-17773018418067810972016-10-16T00:53:00.000-07:002016-10-16T00:53:34.467-07:00Montserrat to ManresaOn Thursday we walked the last leg of the Camino Ignaciano, though we didn't get to the pilgrim office until Friday afternoon. Why? Because it was raining, and all we wanted to do was get back and dry out!<br />
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We set off from Montserrat in the fog, retracing our footsteps for nearly three kilometres till we turned off and headed downhill. The forecast had been grim, but as we descended the fog lifted and we stayed dry until the last hour of walking.<br />
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<i>Over the past few days these shelters (above and below) have been quite a common sight.</i></div>
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<i>The walls are very thick, and I presume that the soil on the roof acts as both an insulator, and an anchor.</i></div>
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<i>The Camino Santiago sign (shell) and the Camino Ignaciano sun - on the footpath as we walked through a village near Manresa.</i></div>
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The descent off the mountain was beautiful. We walked through low forest, with prolific heath in bloom, and fully laden strawberry trees liberally sprinkled amongst the conifers and Holm Oaks. It was steep at times, and quite rocky, but once down in the valley we followed roads and tracks. On reaching the river we got a special surprise - and fellow pilgrims will recognise our delight. The time was about midday and I was starting to think "a coffee would be nice", when, there in front of us, was a bar. There was no village nearby so it was quite a surprise. Perfect timing for a leisurely lunch and a rest.<br />
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<i>We even saw a red squirrel.</i></div>
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It was a long day of walking, but apart from the last hour in the rain, pretty easy walking. We had planned to return to Montserrat for another night so that we could bask in its beauty at leisure. This exercise proved to be the most challenging part of the day!<br />
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We arrived at the train station, only to discover it was the wrong one. We were too tired to walk across town and so we decided to catch a train from there, and then change to get to where we needed to go. The ticket man told us we would depart in 20 mins, and 56 mins later we left (he had disappeared and so we couldn't ask anymore questions), only be delivered to a station that was miles away from where we needed to be. The security man at this station directed us to some steps down the hill. Arriving at the bottom of them we found a bar where we were told the other station was "very far". At this point we decided that a taxi was in order! 45 mins later and €40 poorer we were delivered to the door!<br />
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I have much to show and tell about both Montserrat and Manresa, but that will have to wait till the next post.Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-37529848540522984432016-10-14T00:01:00.001-07:002016-10-14T00:01:21.588-07:00Heading to Montserrat, and nearing the end of the Camino IgnacianoWe have had some wonderful walking through some delightful countryside over the past few days. Leaving la Panadella Julie and I set off down hill, minus Pam, who had left on the bus an hour earlier. To save her knees she avoided the steepest part of the downhill run and walked the last third into Igualada. For Julie and I, there was a consistent downhill grade for about 16 kilometres, all on the road, but fortunately, with very little traffic.<br />
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<i>Leaving la Panadella in the early morning light.</i></div>
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<i>Seeing this bank goes some way to explain the rock walls we have seen along the way. The stones are so symetrical, almost like they have been cut. They lie in the ground like that and I wonder if some of the teracing we have seen just makes use of the already existing layers of rock.</i></div>
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<i>A little church at Santa Maria del Cami.</i></div>
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<i>The dry stone walls use small AND large stones - these were huge, and we have seen many such walls, both in public places and in private yards, in recent days.</i></div>
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It was on this leg that we have seen the first autumn leaves, amidst a large conifer forest. Near the bottom of the looong hill we passed three Korean pilgrims heading up - on fully laden push bikes. They were huffing and puffing, still smiling, and they were only at the beginning of a 16 km hill! <br />
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Just as we entered the town of Igualada we were "bailed up" by a interested group of school girls. They were cavorting around the play ground, their tartan skirts and white shirts covered by pink tunics to keep them clean over the play period! Can't imagine our students donning such a garment to go out to play!<br />
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<i>We had a lovely "siesta" on the way into Igualada.</i></div>
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We had a bit of a challenge finding accommodation for these past few days and so we booked two nights in Igualada, two in Montserrat, and two in Manresa. This means we've had a couple of days without packs - bliss. This has also meant that we have had extra time to explore the place, without getting tired!<br />
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Igualada was an interesting town, with a very long (close to several kilometres at a guess) tree lined pedestrian boulevard. In the town centre the shops were busy, varied, and reasonably prosperous. By contrast, walking in through the outskirts many shops were closed and had been for some time, there was much graffiti, and generally things looked tired.<br />
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<i>The tree lined pedestrian boulevard in Igualada.</i></div>
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<i>Stairs and escalators were common in Igualada!</i></div>
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From Igualada we were able to walk up to Santa Pau de la Guardia pack free. We left them at the pension to which we would return later that day, and set off along a noisy, busy road, crossing vacant industrial land to keep off the road. This was the day we had a reasonably steady climb as we planned to go half way to Montserrat. As the day wore on it was quite exciting to see the mountain appear, or I should say the mountain range, as Montserrat is not just one mountain but a number. I have always heard it translated as the "saw toothed" mountain, and indeed, in Catalan it translated as serrated mountain, meaning the teeth of the saw that is used by the Catalans.<br />
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<i>Our first glimpse of the mountains</i></div>
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<i>We had a couple of bus journeys to get back to Igualada from Sant Pau de la Guardia. The last one left from el Bruc, on the opposite side of the mountain from Montserrat, the next days journey.</i></div>
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The day began in mist, but ended in a hazy sunshine, though the views of the mountains were through a haze.<br />
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<i>Looking back towards San Pau de la Guardia.</i></div>
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After our second night in Igualada we caught a taxi up to where we left off the day before and we set off towards Montserrat, this time with our packs on. The forecast was for rain later in the day, but we managed to get there without having to put our coats on - half hour later and we would have! This was a busy day as it was the national Day for Spain, and a public holiday. The day began with tremendous views, both in front, and behind. There was not a breath of wind and along the forest path peace reigned.<br />
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<i>We are heading to Montserrat, around to the left of the mountain. From here the path just goes gently up and down from here.......</i></div>
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<i>........though we had a very steep scramble down to the buildings below us.</i></div>
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<i>We had to go through this little tunnel, but the next one we went around.</i></div>
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<i>The last few hundred metres into Montserrat</i></div>
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<i>Montserrat</i></div>
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We have been fortunate to spend two nights here in Montserrat. We have seen it on a public holiday, with wall to wall people, and at night when there is not a soul in sight. We have seen it in haze and fog, and today it looks like we'll see it in clear skies. We have seen the car park empty, but on the public holiday we saw an immense traffic jam so big that we saw many do a u turn and give up. When we arrived I counted 25 buses, in the bus car park, without counting those stuck in the traffic jam, or parked further down the road, having digorged their passengers. Yesterday, when we left for our days walk (more on that next time), there were only 4 buses, and half a dozen cars, but many trucks unloading the huge amount of supplies needed each day. <br />
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We have heard a small section of the world famous (and one of the oldest) boys choir at vespers. Today we intend to attend the mass where the whole choir will sing. <br />
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Time has been scarce to do posts, but next post I will tell you about us reaching our destination for this Camino - Manresa.<br />
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<br />Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-64337419851139736812016-10-10T13:14:00.001-07:002016-10-10T13:14:08.657-07:00Verdú and beyond, to la PanadellaToday we left the lovely albergue, run by the nuns, in Cervera and made our way to la Panadella. It has been a gorgeous day for walking as it has been quite cool, and at one point we stopped and put coats on ourselves and rain covers on our packs. We've had some interesting experiences, and met some lovely people over the past few days.<br />
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Confusion reigned when we departed Palau d'Anglesola, with the pension owner under the impression that she was taking all four pilgrims and delivering them to two seperate places. Pam and Julie thought they were doing a combined bus / train journey to Bellpuig to pick up the path from there. After sorting it out, she then dropped Simon and I at one point a few kilometres out of town, taking the other two onto Bellpuig, which I walked through a few hours later. This is apple and pear country, and I passed orchard after orchard of laden trees in the process of being harvested. As I approached at one point I observed one of the workers disappear down a row, only to reappear with two golden delicious apples for me, a delightful smile, and a "Buen Camino". The Day warmed up and I was really grateful for those apples when I took a couple of rest breaks later in the afternoon from the hot sun.<br />
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<i>A fully laden apple tree.</i></div>
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<i>Simon disappearing into the distance on the way to Bellpuig.</i></div>
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<i>There were a number of quarries on this day. Once they had been worked out they are returned to crops.</i></div>
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<i>Just one ruin along the way.</i></div>
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<i>Passing through Bellpuig I could hear a strange, loud, "clacking" sound. Looking up, this was the cause of it.</i></div>
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<b><i>Verdú</i></b> was an interesting village with a 5 star albergue, where we hosted by our charming hospitalero, Veronika. Another night where we had the pleasure of Simon's company. Verdú is the birth place of Saint Peter Claver (our albergue was named after him), a man famed for his work among slaves, who fought hard to make their lives better, against some pretty stiff opposition at the time. The whole village was friendly, from the people in the bar where we had dinner, to the lady watering the pot plants in the street as I left.<br />
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Leaving Verdú the hillside was shrouded in mist which didn't clear until I was almost in <b><i>Tàrrega</i></b>. I fluffed around here, visiting the church, and taking some time for breakfast. This was just as well, as there was nowhere else open until I reached my destination for the night. Pam and Julie were motoring along, whereas I was limping when I started and trying hard to take slower smaller steps, in an effort not to lengthen the tendon anymore. Out of interest, I have been doing 15 lots of 2 special calf exercises 3 times, night and morning. My ankle is still swollen, still a bit sore, still slow to crank up after a rest, but I am now walking normally 80% of the time.<br />
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<i>Looking back towards Verdú rising from the mist.</i></div>
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<i>Just one of the buildings in Verdú, a very neat and tidy village.</i></div>
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<i>Is it alive or just cold? I didn't try and find out!</i></div>
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As I was about 4 kms out of Tàrrega I was surprised to find Simon had caught me up. Somehow he had got lost on the way out of Verdú, and so ended up behind me. It was lovely to walk with him for an hour or so, but I eventually had to stop for a rest - his legs, and therefore his stride, are much longer than mine, especially at present, and it wasn't fair to hold him back. <br />
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<i>Tàrrega, glistening in the morning sun.</i></div>
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<i>Simon heading towards Cervera in the distance.</i></div>
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The past few days I have seen a lot of ruins in the paddocks. Much like one sees in the North of South Australia. Because, in other parts of Spain that I have been to, the houses are all in villages, including the dilapidated and the ruined, this stands out for me. I have only noticed this in Catalunya, though for all I know it could be noticeable in other parts of Spain I have yet to visit. The other ruins that stand out are castles atop hills, some more ruined than others.<br />
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<i>More ruins.</i></div>
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<i>An adobe ruin.</i></div>
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<b><i>Cervera</i></b> is an interesting town - on a hilltop, and a steepish one at that! It is an historical town with really narrow streets, so narrow that for cars to make a right angled turn into another street it is necessary to make it a three point turn! This morning we watched a man drive his car through one little curve, stopping to tuck his mirrors in, running back, and approaching at a slightly different angle and after about 8 minutes he inched his way forward! In our Refugio last night we shared, not only with Simon, but also a Spanish <i>bikogrino</i>, who had no idea what quiet packing was, and who took an inordinate amount of time to pack this morning. Though we had said goodbye to Simon last night, he was up early to catch a taxi to where we were headed, and from there make his way to Igualada. It was great having his company for a few days and we will miss him.<br />
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<i>With steep stairs, this was one street that could only be walked.</i></div>
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<i>Looking back at Cervera, with its very wide and long castle wall.</i></div>
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<i>The facade of the University building in Cervera. This building was where Ferdinand and Isabella signed a contract ensuring that she would never be in a position of loosing the power she wielded. It was also a concentration camp during the Civil War and later, during WW2, holding allied soldiers trying to get back to their armies.</i></div>
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<i>I went wandering in Cervera and saw this across the valley.</i></div>
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<i>Julie descending from Cervera.</i></div>
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Today has got us half way to Igualada, to <b><i>la Panadella</i></b>, which we are planning to reach tomorrow. La Panadella is tiny, and basically a stopping place for road travellers on there and from where I'm not sure, but it is a very busy place. Igualada here we come!<br />
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<i>It is such a great treat seeing the shepherd lead his flock out to the paddocks. Some of these sheep were loitering, but quickly joined the flock when he called.</i></div>
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<i>We have been following the orange arrows.</i></div>
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<i>Heading to la Panadella.</i></div>
<br />Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-30759329510896937992016-10-07T09:54:00.001-07:002016-10-07T09:54:38.110-07:00Lleida and Palau d'AnglesolaThe best laid plans of......<br />
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We thought we had a grand plan for today, until we woke up! The plan was to send our packs, by taxi (at €37), to Palau d'Anglesola, and for us to walk pack free, or rather with just our small day packs. How things change! We awoke to thunder, lightening, and heavy rain! We weren't worried about the latter, but the former did bother us, especially as the forecast was a yellow warning for thunderstorms till late in the day. None of us had any desire to be out in that weather, as the path was quite exposed.<br />
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We decided to skip to plan B, that is, find a bar and have a coffee. While in the throes of plan B we opted to go straight to plan C - catch a bus to Palau d'Anglesola, where we had booked our accommodation for the night. We caught the little hop on / hop off train that still had some time left on the ticket, and arriving near the bus station early, were forced to adjourn to a cafe for another coffee and cake!<br />
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<i>The Little hop on / hop off train.</i></div>
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<i>A former hospital in Lleida, next to where the train departs.</i></div>
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The bus ride was a treat. We were passing through village 3 on our way to our destination in village 4. A young lass came rushing down the aisle calling to the bus driver. She had fallen asleep and missed her stop. Rather than let her off there, the driver retraced the journey back to village 2, she alighted, and then he did a three point turn and continued back on the path! He was very kind and a bit of a card - insisted on calling us <i>señorita's</i> and referred to us as <i>the girls! </i>Then, on arriving, and settling in, at the pension, another treat, we met another pilgrim -Simon, an Englishman walking the same Camino as us. As you might imagine, we had an lovely time sharing stories.<br />
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<i>A street in El Palau d'Anglesola.......</i></div>
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<i>.....and the residents on the bell tower.</i></div>
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<i>The stork's nest can be seen above the bells on the right.</i></div>
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Our journey from Zaragoza was fast and uneventful on the train. We passed through some interesting country, initially desert like, with fascinating hilly landforms, then changing to intensive horticulture and agriculture on the flat plains between the hills.<br />
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Lleida is a largish town, somewhat more decrepit than Zaragoza, though in the centre of town things were a bit more sparkling. It had a new and an old Cathedral, along with a castle. We bought a ticket for the little tourist train and spent a good hour tootling around the city. There seemed a large number of young men who lingered on street corners - one has to wonder why!! <br />
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<i>The Old Cathedral in Lleida...</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLN-zCJTwvLHulymAWszayCCkIWZdgYP3YJdxJjQkj_EP-GJqLu4CLz9G1P-jugTHgT72lyjh22gDAjtsPXi6UMOGO29U-jLepJzSmFgCZat3j2p2WV6M2WEsTGY4fhpUwDf6zDjMZkqGq/s1600/20161006031621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLN-zCJTwvLHulymAWszayCCkIWZdgYP3YJdxJjQkj_EP-GJqLu4CLz9G1P-jugTHgT72lyjh22gDAjtsPXi6UMOGO29U-jLepJzSmFgCZat3j2p2WV6M2WEsTGY4fhpUwDf6zDjMZkqGq/s400/20161006031621.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i>the cloisters,</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh75VNeGnEY6GhU9hXlfYBOP4D_Tln1Vvz9rV7giiyEt9h2wSx7Gs0i5-iyPs99Vpz0z5nCI9JyjHWjdFylBNIRZP_ab0LIhAD4NFnp2RPLLhn4HRwDurbPIx1r-hFRV-zMtootsxAiscRu/s1600/20161006031334.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh75VNeGnEY6GhU9hXlfYBOP4D_Tln1Vvz9rV7giiyEt9h2wSx7Gs0i5-iyPs99Vpz0z5nCI9JyjHWjdFylBNIRZP_ab0LIhAD4NFnp2RPLLhn4HRwDurbPIx1r-hFRV-zMtootsxAiscRu/s400/20161006031334.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>and the view.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjku8iymmlq1I9O3U9YEzebEijACOIkoMrn_ZoC6iCwfMoiPQwVcJgsaTMdH9JhIA5TqTFgDTWQSRDOCl52OibCdlXbYRba2OI2d3G6D8pC2NwxS2HBrVSm39hsLHPK_WI02zP4dPw567pN/s1600/20161006031200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjku8iymmlq1I9O3U9YEzebEijACOIkoMrn_ZoC6iCwfMoiPQwVcJgsaTMdH9JhIA5TqTFgDTWQSRDOCl52OibCdlXbYRba2OI2d3G6D8pC2NwxS2HBrVSm39hsLHPK_WI02zP4dPw567pN/s400/20161006031200.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i>St Jaume (St James) is very revered in Lleida. Though this is not the common image of him, this is the one paraded through the streets on St James eve, 24th July.</i></div>
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<i>Our hop on / hop off train on tour at the castle.</i></div>
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Today I have walked. But more of that in the next post<br />
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<i><br /></i>Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-37490678322968195082016-10-04T12:31:00.001-07:002016-10-04T12:31:24.564-07:00ZaragozaAn old city, a beautiful city, and a very friendly city. I really enjoyed the time spent here, but am disappointed that I was not up to my usual exploring, thinking I should use some discretion in my meanderings this time due to my ankle.<br />
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The <i>pièce de résistance </i>of the city has to be the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar. It could be seen on the horizon as we left <i><b>Utebo</b></i>, looking almost Middle eastern from that distance. As we got closer glimpses could be captured through the trees, until, arriving in the plaza, there it was in all its glory.<br />
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<i>The Basiílica de Nuestra del Señora del Pilar from the plaza......</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM-WurPfgkXgv1NPacejkTQRqVbYYeWJKDf7xoyiN3tlbq4C3jhOYIldjcc4VCPDWF5iOmQyljamf_qjVSKmVbroXyYcLs3Pp7Exzp8t_hziD9Wptr_qtHjRFxEOiOL2UGE-ULcExaQ6KX/s1600/20161004202349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM-WurPfgkXgv1NPacejkTQRqVbYYeWJKDf7xoyiN3tlbq4C3jhOYIldjcc4VCPDWF5iOmQyljamf_qjVSKmVbroXyYcLs3Pp7Exzp8t_hziD9Wptr_qtHjRFxEOiOL2UGE-ULcExaQ6KX/s400/20161004202349.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>....and from Puenta de Piedra.....</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtAbmWb2kJ6bBlaW-Cyd0UO-JSbbXW_FaMxKvqdXqXYumcsYdZMUdtyIfkSwyglExflqc98-F-oYqq4WL6ndir5JAqdSBIBQT2sC5IrVe6-Rremue2FL1j1356SLsBut9L6OMV8ScUXCqk/s1600/20161003045416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtAbmWb2kJ6bBlaW-Cyd0UO-JSbbXW_FaMxKvqdXqXYumcsYdZMUdtyIfkSwyglExflqc98-F-oYqq4WL6ndir5JAqdSBIBQT2sC5IrVe6-Rremue2FL1j1356SLsBut9L6OMV8ScUXCqk/s400/20161003045416.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i>....and from Calle de Alfonso 1.</i></div>
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This is just one of a number of monumental buildings, in both senses of the word! It sits in an even larger Plaza - the Plaza del Pilar, in which there were two large public ceremonies conducted while we were in town. Both of these ceremonies were to do with the police. On the first day it appeared to be a memorial ceremony, with police decked out in their dress uniforms, complete with medals. It was also a great chance to show off equipment and vehicles. Indeed further down the plaza there was an exhibition of such things as robots, weapons, clothing, and so on. Today it was the Guardia Civil's turn, also showing off their different departments - scuba diving and mountaineering among them. they were all very security conscious with guards up on the roof of the Basilica yesterday, today, standing on every intersection in the vicinity. It is interesting that even showing such a public profile as this they chat away on their phones and don't hesitate to light up!<br />
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<i>A police officer watching the crowd from the roof of the Basílica.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Udg-1tGoA_lCi1XbgjjEaKWsXjrG1cLvOuMxYG5RoArVXEiHxwPhDFntQ4qp02vF59TQZHMTkxW_b6fRzZqt6bjr8l-mfUdqIHaVMQCZsQ7e8U-71BOEF2DSBe1yeGsWx_XyKdKCX3R-/s1600/20161004202303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Udg-1tGoA_lCi1XbgjjEaKWsXjrG1cLvOuMxYG5RoArVXEiHxwPhDFntQ4qp02vF59TQZHMTkxW_b6fRzZqt6bjr8l-mfUdqIHaVMQCZsQ7e8U-71BOEF2DSBe1yeGsWx_XyKdKCX3R-/s400/20161004202303.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Some of the Guardia Civil wear very novel hats.</i></div>
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Another monumental building is the Catedral del Salvador de Zaragoza. This is an extremely important historical building nationally, and is huge. The doors alone are at least three stories high, just like the Basilica. It is quite an unusual shape with many (not so little) side chapels, and unlike most cathedrals it's main chapel is also a side chapel, with the centre being filled with the choir and organ. Upstairs in what would have been the tower, there is a tapestry museum, filled with extraordinary tapestries, floor to ceiling in size and some over 4 - 5 metres wide. The detail in the stories they depict is amazing, with even the intricate patterns on clothing being clearly visible.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnbIJ38tsYcgEUQqxhxY0IgSgryWbyVtRvNCs5FwekmlunteJo7vrMecBKYrPXAbrhGzCMNX9ZalZIbwJ2k_A3-Q15HrNaw61HK1mr-ztQ46nQ4vJJ96R8HH2MSDs-xNJF1UynyJRrjb3i/s1600/20161004214624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnbIJ38tsYcgEUQqxhxY0IgSgryWbyVtRvNCs5FwekmlunteJo7vrMecBKYrPXAbrhGzCMNX9ZalZIbwJ2k_A3-Q15HrNaw61HK1mr-ztQ46nQ4vJJ96R8HH2MSDs-xNJF1UynyJRrjb3i/s400/20161004214624.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i>Catedral del Salvador de Zaragoza.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaMhtrIj_JRZeVJrKpfi0SN92GWm_bMCTCtlOQWKZiK5YDNFS6Jt_cqDnXqvp5p7GsrtoVvGg245ue4RlExIUTGN74APeoFirlW8hRMNHtaswc_-KqUVlTSQegXlQYeRIjMz-DqKmXqC6U/s1600/20161004214542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaMhtrIj_JRZeVJrKpfi0SN92GWm_bMCTCtlOQWKZiK5YDNFS6Jt_cqDnXqvp5p7GsrtoVvGg245ue4RlExIUTGN74APeoFirlW8hRMNHtaswc_-KqUVlTSQegXlQYeRIjMz-DqKmXqC6U/s400/20161004214542.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i>On one side of the Cathedral the mudéjar influence can be seen......</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5J0xq_cIQ9p5HlpCQqj56bPnRb4siljz4OYXhqtH0bH1-W9EllhjqBYEbY3_PTUaS6Gwfsy4TtFMkVV0hxstcAosPL2kO0uYg3YU61NY2BRXfYcI7A4pWlNH4Myhl3qfmXgL072lyf3kl/s1600/20161004214513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5J0xq_cIQ9p5HlpCQqj56bPnRb4siljz4OYXhqtH0bH1-W9EllhjqBYEbY3_PTUaS6Gwfsy4TtFMkVV0hxstcAosPL2kO0uYg3YU61NY2BRXfYcI7A4pWlNH4Myhl3qfmXgL072lyf3kl/s400/20161004214513.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>...... and some of the detail close up</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_YmkrtBoH4UzH5Dx3FFMNvQISOJAoAL6oZJjrQKRZw3GIj3imJWVxVOTGNVTbdPWi_pIdyW2SCV7YZRC4fLdSHGn7ov4qlstX8-biGro21_hPiSn7Jh8zi26WDN4deHQIiD3Px4Xd3N8T/s1600/20161003044746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_YmkrtBoH4UzH5Dx3FFMNvQISOJAoAL6oZJjrQKRZw3GIj3imJWVxVOTGNVTbdPWi_pIdyW2SCV7YZRC4fLdSHGn7ov4qlstX8-biGro21_hPiSn7Jh8zi26WDN4deHQIiD3Px4Xd3N8T/s400/20161003044746.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>And, for comparison, a small section of the church tower in Utebo.</i></div>
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This is an ancient city and there are numerous pieces of Roman Wall, a Roman tower, and statues honouring the Romans.<br />
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<i>A small section of the Roman wall.....</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN9NQDPalKYJST8Ka0NUwyy9jJmuWgilY5lKIlNmIZ-KfHz-7QN2xNzXPJvugRCu5UviH4A2rYAJnCLiaOy5kMQ5Auzrod6YxuyneIBFgBYR7SYDRiCPY_TLhSNlzSwtIEZ4QzcW2LOCtC/s1600/20161003045019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN9NQDPalKYJST8Ka0NUwyy9jJmuWgilY5lKIlNmIZ-KfHz-7QN2xNzXPJvugRCu5UviH4A2rYAJnCLiaOy5kMQ5Auzrod6YxuyneIBFgBYR7SYDRiCPY_TLhSNlzSwtIEZ4QzcW2LOCtC/s400/20161003045019.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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...<i>and the tower dating from Roman times.</i></div>
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The Basílica has two towers which the public can access. I went part way up one (brave Pam went all the way!). I was quite happy to be only 70metres above the ground, and had no desire or need to go anther 20 metres! I went up in the early evening, and a stiff breeze had sprung up and so I decided that the 70 metre (three stories) lift ride was quite satisfactory! The views were fantastic.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI5I3x4BDn0M42_dN9TMgiYQL01GSaxHIsslvgwHPGYOazU2WtfS0YDbbBojTHIZyUweV3EfpfAoVGcNmwbI0Dg_hCv8Qyc-SrKxBUd6P4h-Zn4fm-4qCyJf1zg6GC8JTtzlcrS5dv4w0s/s1600/20161004214313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI5I3x4BDn0M42_dN9TMgiYQL01GSaxHIsslvgwHPGYOazU2WtfS0YDbbBojTHIZyUweV3EfpfAoVGcNmwbI0Dg_hCv8Qyc-SrKxBUd6P4h-Zn4fm-4qCyJf1zg6GC8JTtzlcrS5dv4w0s/s400/20161004214313.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>A roof top view from the tower 70 metres up</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq34Y4ySz7K0Hf92QA5-C0kC2CbCiSUBzwFlXVNIjmb96jd1pH_j3GqFEXhuFsQPVFdzU83fIPJsduuMTOjS8W1YntdYp2Vd7RCCuYMh0bMA_s1XgoRKURL_i2bqOJ6TnrjEOoyZDfwzLL/s1600/20161004214147.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq34Y4ySz7K0Hf92QA5-C0kC2CbCiSUBzwFlXVNIjmb96jd1pH_j3GqFEXhuFsQPVFdzU83fIPJsduuMTOjS8W1YntdYp2Vd7RCCuYMh0bMA_s1XgoRKURL_i2bqOJ6TnrjEOoyZDfwzLL/s400/20161004214147.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>From the same viewpoint, the Puenta de Piedra....</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgANcbPfHOAduy6CfwvnXpD2VkQK9_hxg-0dVWDHwGc4LRHiTvSgFMZNn47GcwDG2PQdYsNNAq8k2VK7OQFWnr7dgKVCIozvfsMiGCAK3E2qwBAp1b_CbVNXJnfxN87pFTdWeXWpjXrmGXY/s1600/20161004214845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgANcbPfHOAduy6CfwvnXpD2VkQK9_hxg-0dVWDHwGc4LRHiTvSgFMZNn47GcwDG2PQdYsNNAq8k2VK7OQFWnr7dgKVCIozvfsMiGCAK3E2qwBAp1b_CbVNXJnfxN87pFTdWeXWpjXrmGXY/s400/20161004214845.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>.......and at night.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNq0_aCPtfZo4TdGWrg_VnmEx_E9FyFXHAubykzEe6aQb70oTLEtcggWzSGYlPUgmhhjStFMZsRJE7UGPEBPCGokxqCBdLcaGXjggYOlr6Eh-XAArzYBSJx7wEwQ0Ao2m7REw6Mz6fM_Dk/s1600/20161004214759.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNq0_aCPtfZo4TdGWrg_VnmEx_E9FyFXHAubykzEe6aQb70oTLEtcggWzSGYlPUgmhhjStFMZsRJE7UGPEBPCGokxqCBdLcaGXjggYOlr6Eh-XAArzYBSJx7wEwQ0Ao2m7REw6Mz6fM_Dk/s400/20161004214759.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Puenta de Santiago at night.......</i></div>
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<i>.......and the Basilica at night</i></div>
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We had a very convenient hotel, very quiet and comfortable - opposite a fancy dress shop and next door to a sex shop!<br />
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The Goya museum was interesting, and here I had a special treat, bumping into David, who lives round the corner from me and who was the first treasurer of the Australian Friends of the Camino. It was really nice to catch up with him and meet his English walking friend.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1E81inN1XvB25xcu69e0UMwXkuHwjPMk_50yOXNFiQnAafRBCRrObNsDYdZ61GgBLvFCk1nNj5Cz8geU_QipmfJZAMAIwTPpd6ssPwTIgl3yTXiQ9P6P742mcDNJEWwjIQFCBp3jw0ACY/s1600/20161004214638.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1E81inN1XvB25xcu69e0UMwXkuHwjPMk_50yOXNFiQnAafRBCRrObNsDYdZ61GgBLvFCk1nNj5Cz8geU_QipmfJZAMAIwTPpd6ssPwTIgl3yTXiQ9P6P742mcDNJEWwjIQFCBp3jw0ACY/s400/20161004214638.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i>A statue of Goya......</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSHSYdyMozGvymfD5mh56WDl57QgtRsdbbBMr4ACwEf4L3axVczFk9YMgsOeDSoZV5DZgGkQ29IpuLiTWXKWVP_z4Orh-Il5fJNDLNBOnh0BS6hSksy9tI7zIkF1hVWLm1l4pXySoHGw8K/s1600/20161004214422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSHSYdyMozGvymfD5mh56WDl57QgtRsdbbBMr4ACwEf4L3axVczFk9YMgsOeDSoZV5DZgGkQ29IpuLiTWXKWVP_z4Orh-Il5fJNDLNBOnh0BS6hSksy9tI7zIkF1hVWLm1l4pXySoHGw8K/s400/20161004214422.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>......and inside the Goya museum, where I met David and his friend John.</i></div>
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There is much more I could tell you about Zaragoza, and there was certainly much more to see - maybe next time! This will have do.<br />
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Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-45381696614032802842016-10-03T13:20:00.000-07:002016-10-03T13:20:13.686-07:00Hobbling into Zaragoza!We are now in the wonderful City of Zaragoza, but I will talk about that at another time. For now I will cover getting here.<br />
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The last time I posted was in Tudela, just prior to me heading to the station to catch the train to <b><i>Gallur</i></b>. Pam and Julie had left in the morning, planning to meet me on the train and then for us to stop at a small village called Gallur. We were successful up to arriving in Gallur, but not for stopping, as we discovered that the rather delightful albergue was closed, though we couldn't establish whether just for the weekend or for the season.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgToeRACSAdaLQsDYKbCAWaUj3HzQpSv_89X_U5Rm_geul0c7ihtfqKo5Dy6D6HFXAo-9JzxV7BDVsqrqogOYcgv7WMbAPkoMj2W4Zf3qVX-E7l50ctfY6fVqyZmly3wSqZB8MHGqpXvfNa/s1600/20161002053231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgToeRACSAdaLQsDYKbCAWaUj3HzQpSv_89X_U5Rm_geul0c7ihtfqKo5Dy6D6HFXAo-9JzxV7BDVsqrqogOYcgv7WMbAPkoMj2W4Zf3qVX-E7l50ctfY6fVqyZmly3wSqZB8MHGqpXvfNa/s400/20161002053231.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The albergue at Gallur - in the old station house. The albergue was closed but we made use of the bar until the train was due. At the station itself we had to wait to cross to the platform on the other side until the station master told us to cross.</i></div>
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This meant we had to sit and relax for 2 hours until the next train. We then set off in the early evening for <b><i>Alagón</i></b>. A strange place. Once, like many places along this stretch, a thriving small town, but now with closed industries. It was a mystery as to what the industry was near the train station, with huge chimney stacks, massive buildings, and now home to some very large stork's nests.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMniT5yueQ07Qe7NMiuIt6Exqc0ikjv6DYF8VsufC_IoNWQBy2_ex0obsv8FMhyphenhyphen07f9X3zCKHbzH0w7EWRnJSAZr8QCmnnTbaFCMVKT5EaeQjmfkkzG2rG4dX0VVhAxoT9NPRD8yKXkKU5/s1600/20161002053214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMniT5yueQ07Qe7NMiuIt6Exqc0ikjv6DYF8VsufC_IoNWQBy2_ex0obsv8FMhyphenhyphen07f9X3zCKHbzH0w7EWRnJSAZr8QCmnnTbaFCMVKT5EaeQjmfkkzG2rG4dX0VVhAxoT9NPRD8yKXkKU5/s400/20161002053214.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>These derelict buildings were obviously part of some large industry, now they'qt awre home to the storks.</i></div>
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We wandered through the town eventually finding a very nice hostal for €50 for the three of us. We managed to persuade the hostal owner to provide dinner at 8.00pm. There were two other pilgrims staying (having walked from Arles, in France), and they too must have been able to persuade him that they required an earlier dinner. It was good to meet some other pilgrims, they are few and far between on this route.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVoBmL561_QLqtZf0cpXJsassxvrfOBnA6V4NJCS26X7adDFRjDXQApG2N_-gVlo866leTc9I2kOo1PnDWBJXYE8YsYOrDh3YmWRf9lzOYmnNTAY6Ew8uL0-CPESAmNcuwW-VorGgrLiqy/s1600/20161002053103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVoBmL561_QLqtZf0cpXJsassxvrfOBnA6V4NJCS26X7adDFRjDXQApG2N_-gVlo866leTc9I2kOo1PnDWBJXYE8YsYOrDh3YmWRf9lzOYmnNTAY6Ew8uL0-CPESAmNcuwW-VorGgrLiqy/s400/20161002053103.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>An early morning departure from our hostal opposite this church.</i></div>
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We divided the walk into Zaragoza into 2 days. This meant it was manageable for all of us, and especially for me as I hobble slowly along! The walk from Alagón has been through some very intensive horticulture and agriculture. Crops such as corn, cabbages, Vines, fruit trees and so on. There have also been some lovely crops of Lucerne - some nearly ready to cut, others already mown. The River (Ebro) was off to our left, and we always had the magnificent cliffs on that bank to watch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1CFUxYf_Zeq7McGiCmDRUPLiYoiH4Fcs-rIUnOfIUB_r2WSUwtPsySeinWzsN_3SaI3fND7MjRs76IHi0vwqmCEsq4oI0l7HiBVg2Q0JJC62SVCpG1vU-fyIpXKfMPFXrDbS2XHRLagKQ/s1600/20161002053028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1CFUxYf_Zeq7McGiCmDRUPLiYoiH4Fcs-rIUnOfIUB_r2WSUwtPsySeinWzsN_3SaI3fND7MjRs76IHi0vwqmCEsq4oI0l7HiBVg2Q0JJC62SVCpG1vU-fyIpXKfMPFXrDbS2XHRLagKQ/s400/20161002053028.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The path from Alagón.......</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv3neHJb2-Fr_jMiVSlUeexBhPf_gNCYgWwqpCqiTAVrQFMED4JVbxz6X-auHmGpuMfpxKOzz9berRXdPXYv4UQpeUs4Jm7T-kYsEiiZtTnrgKgVJToiA_pHsTWP9CgNuMQjp4LUKwsI2l/s1600/20161002052825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv3neHJb2-Fr_jMiVSlUeexBhPf_gNCYgWwqpCqiTAVrQFMED4JVbxz6X-auHmGpuMfpxKOzz9berRXdPXYv4UQpeUs4Jm7T-kYsEiiZtTnrgKgVJToiA_pHsTWP9CgNuMQjp4LUKwsI2l/s400/20161002052825.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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.<i>.....past many irrigation chanels. Note the large fungi on the tree, below the yellow arrow, that Julie is studying.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-DDZBbkBqmJmEmwFexdWSq3hdH2rCUNc_jgDSIcFBTpQCCxqaasU1O8PxMDSotPXNOXA5qUIhLAznoWVNGdkZspAY0_UuwzLCnuF_dnE1ga6htq4vWqBl282He7-m-ihGmX-VGDxdma45/s1600/20161002052455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-DDZBbkBqmJmEmwFexdWSq3hdH2rCUNc_jgDSIcFBTpQCCxqaasU1O8PxMDSotPXNOXA5qUIhLAznoWVNGdkZspAY0_UuwzLCnuF_dnE1ga6htq4vWqBl282He7-m-ihGmX-VGDxdma45/s400/20161002052455.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>We always had the cliffs to look at</i></div>
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In this region I have noticed a lot more Adobe buildings. We passed one the other day which looked as if it was in the process of maybe being preserved - certainly being more cared for. Not all Adobe buildings and walls have been obvious though as a lot have been rendered. I noticed it because some of the render had either been chipped away or was falling off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaZHvqGDQsVuYm3_cMYqHRwOL4JrSgSSHeaiGFr8lIEaQ2pigxDuGKoP305kPoy6wPuZOsucV29myl_9s-RQoaSfLdMYMCkWnwovZxLX5v2y9UwRcJtlJCLZbNUAXoXqsqIGsjcoNvXoZ2/s1600/20161002052749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaZHvqGDQsVuYm3_cMYqHRwOL4JrSgSSHeaiGFr8lIEaQ2pigxDuGKoP305kPoy6wPuZOsucV29myl_9s-RQoaSfLdMYMCkWnwovZxLX5v2y9UwRcJtlJCLZbNUAXoXqsqIGsjcoNvXoZ2/s400/20161002052749.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>An Adobe wall.....</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6EJfCSBJ5hlgR6PfuuHXizOE8l3wvauKoq_bNLvMq1Ns7OPp-5rL0gmvGmit3AaMjNK59m6HxS8AemMX7LnUfJqBN7QuXXPoYBIY8_aMEtveHVS1t5BpTz5pQmSD7ejPLtRV1kjc5vtvl/s1600/20161002052536.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6EJfCSBJ5hlgR6PfuuHXizOE8l3wvauKoq_bNLvMq1Ns7OPp-5rL0gmvGmit3AaMjNK59m6HxS8AemMX7LnUfJqBN7QuXXPoYBIY8_aMEtveHVS1t5BpTz5pQmSD7ejPLtRV1kjc5vtvl/s400/20161002052536.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>......and a small Adobe building which appeared to be being restored.</i></div>
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From Alagón we walked to the village of <b><i>Utebo</i></b>. A leisurely drink at the bar in the square gave us plenty of time to study the magnificent church tower. That evening another party was in progress here - what a surprise! This one was to do with a bike race. We got front seats at a cafe, and saw the race begin. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0POP00REdETLCpofwVFa40TvR3UzPUd29F5OcB3askzVqAJ1jqoAof9GhGCCTH9psVQiM3H5r7uC9uWYw8jpHR2gVQf5gaSmMn698hRFJu8P7-JnavE0SND8hm9O1FbK6lPhMGk9HDpVF/s1600/20161002052416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0POP00REdETLCpofwVFa40TvR3UzPUd29F5OcB3askzVqAJ1jqoAof9GhGCCTH9psVQiM3H5r7uC9uWYw8jpHR2gVQf5gaSmMn698hRFJu8P7-JnavE0SND8hm9O1FbK6lPhMGk9HDpVF/s400/20161002052416.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i>The church tower in Uterbo.....</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35C2KLww0j4dXGtwBEXTlv9CUdtdU6Jzu-yajT1x8d8lOvh2uHtari8Voz8PCy-NYW62VxzAbCFfoyGer0Zc4BuoKV6ReykGjMaBwAzP2TmQv6qxTXqpjZxo1dn3nBxKpBXQwF3XZQ93Z/s1600/20161002052359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35C2KLww0j4dXGtwBEXTlv9CUdtdU6Jzu-yajT1x8d8lOvh2uHtari8Voz8PCy-NYW62VxzAbCFfoyGer0Zc4BuoKV6ReykGjMaBwAzP2TmQv6qxTXqpjZxo1dn3nBxKpBXQwF3XZQ93Z/s400/20161002052359.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>......and some of the detail on it.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX0QzeNGq-XW7ll6wjStvIdhW12SJq__bMSiNaB1-vaHfUL-7yUwcU8j5uADbrhmVl-FPZqVkyUdZS-PcHqELJmQHhDZCfr5jN7xXtS2mU7HAkn2NK5re-6DDOAb4INDAsRTXmm1Emp3ts/s1600/20161002052309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX0QzeNGq-XW7ll6wjStvIdhW12SJq__bMSiNaB1-vaHfUL-7yUwcU8j5uADbrhmVl-FPZqVkyUdZS-PcHqELJmQHhDZCfr5jN7xXtS2mU7HAkn2NK5re-6DDOAb4INDAsRTXmm1Emp3ts/s400/20161002052309.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i>Just some of the people at the party in Uterbo.</i></div>
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<i>On the way to Zaragoza, looking back at Uterbo.</i></div>
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It was a lovely walk into Zaragoza. There were fields to meander through at first, and then the last 5 kms took us along the banks of the Ebro. This was a well defined path, jam packed with walkers, runners, and cyclists.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBqwOd57LsDCIqHH-BtlrKO9Pr8mRHg4sofIls35tfzxAPx4pTc7NyjyNCmO2epH7I6_Cfyye8_bD5WoECZJHCWs6ZrUs9az_Jn9otnObBbOgXdzKokdFF7MLb3enUuOvQZO20TrH9F0h3/s1600/20161003044918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBqwOd57LsDCIqHH-BtlrKO9Pr8mRHg4sofIls35tfzxAPx4pTc7NyjyNCmO2epH7I6_Cfyye8_bD5WoECZJHCWs6ZrUs9az_Jn9otnObBbOgXdzKokdFF7MLb3enUuOvQZO20TrH9F0h3/s400/20161003044918.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Julie pauses to look at the Rio Ebro...</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcreYLQlf5ylnEX9lzkU5lrLvLY-_nUjLYCl9KKQzEBLE5dDuSGTaPqOPP7JyOhy02W3C_nvVI7w2MWsWXoRdgJ6UvD5k4Dqu6oAMph1oRxdls_l-CAEpACDQF0AqJbDNCruddOWbuvxyP/s1600/20161003044950.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcreYLQlf5ylnEX9lzkU5lrLvLY-_nUjLYCl9KKQzEBLE5dDuSGTaPqOPP7JyOhy02W3C_nvVI7w2MWsWXoRdgJ6UvD5k4Dqu6oAMph1oRxdls_l-CAEpACDQF0AqJbDNCruddOWbuvxyP/s400/20161003044950.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>.....and she walks amongst the many out walking on a Sunday afternoon.</i></div>
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Zaragoza is a lovely City, but I don't have time to tell you about it now - will do so next post.<br />
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Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-29583125946613661632016-09-30T05:23:00.001-07:002016-09-30T05:23:15.098-07:00A rest day in TudelaTudela might be a small town, but it's big in history. We arrived here yesterday, and have spent the day having a rest. I have spent some of the day at the physio, where I had my tendonitis (Achilles) treated.<br />
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What has been happening over the past few days? I walked alone into Calahorra, a very old town, and sadly, somewhat decrepit. I was alone because neither Pam nor Julie wanted to walk it, and I decided I didn't really want to sit around waiting for the train to come, so off I set. <br />
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<i>Leaving Alcanadre and the obligatory " shadow" photo!</i></div>
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<i>A little further on I was still enjoying the vistas of vineyards.</i></div>
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The first few kilometres were quite pleasant. The air was cool, the light was great, with interesting clouds colouring the sky. Then the path crossed the freeway, and for many kilometres I trudged alongside it, trying not to let the traffic noises distract me! Phillipe, the French pilgrim, didn't like it at all - but I guess the similarities with home made me feel more comfortable. He complained about the dust, but each time I hit a patch I just thought "it's not as bad as bull dust - nearly, but not quite!". It was about a 20km walk, and I was there long before the others arrived.<br />
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Calahorra was quite modern walking into it, with many new apartment buildings, but in the old town it was a different story. There were many buildings in disrepair, some only just standing, and quite a bit of graffiti. At the same time this was a fascinating place. Very narrow streets, ancient, crooked, buildings but with plazas interspersed throughout. <br />
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<i>Pam & Julie heading towards the cathedral in Calahorra.</i></div>
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<i>and on the way we passed these little statues of Don Quixote, and his jovial companion.</i></div>
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Many races live here, and as Julie and I returned to the albergue we heard the Muslim call to prayer, and leaving the next morning, as the bells peeled, we heard the call to Mass.<br />
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We stayed in the Franciscan Albergue where we paid a few euro extra for sheets (much better than a sleeping bag), making it €12 each!<br />
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<i>The view from the albergue window in Calahorra.</i></div>
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The next morning we set off fairly early, walking down past the cathedral. It was lovely looking back at the town in the clear morning light. On this Day, fortunately, we had decided we were only going to walk to Rincón de Soto and from there we planned to catch the train. I say fortunately, because, with only about 5 kms to go, I was struck down with severe tendonitis. I wasn't aware of it prior to this, and so it's appearance was all the more surprising for me. I hobbled into town, where we found a pleasant bar to have so refreshments and watch the world go by. We spent a pleasant couple of hours here before heading to the train station. On the train we caught up with Phillippe, who had decided that he was walking at all that day. He, like us, planned to have a rest day in Tudela.<br />
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<i>Leaving Calahorra</i></div>
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<i>On the road - with Calahorra getting ever more distant.</i></div>
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We have spent our rest day eating, exploring, and resting! It is a novel experience to have a siesta, but all three of us observed the customary couple of hours siesta! Mind you, having my legs and feet massaged for an hour or so at the physio was very relaxing too! <br />
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This town is full of history. It is one of the places that crop up in Spain, where for centuries, Jews, Muslims, and Christians lived in peace, each considering those of a different culture. Leaders of each community would attend important functions / events of the other. Writing this makes me quite sad - where have we gone wrong? Why can't we have that same concern, tolerance, acceptance, and understanding of others backgrounds. It existed once - will it ever again? Enough of the sermon - onto other things! <br />
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<i>Arriving by train at Tudela</i></div>
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<i>The main square in Tudela, which was once a bull ring.</i></div>
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<i>The stork's have taken up permanent residence in Tudela, having abandoned there migratory instincts for security. Feathers can be seen everywhere.</i></div>
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<i>Just one of the narrow streets in Tudela.</i></div>
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I had a lovely time here, despite my discomfort. In part of my wanderings I visited the Cathedral. There was no one in the Cathedral at the time and so I asked a young priest if I could sing - "of course" was his response. Thus I can say I have sung in Tudela Cathedral!<br />
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<i>The Cathedral cloisters.....</i></div>
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<i>...and just a small portion of the huge building </i></div>
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<i>The patron Saint of the city - Santa Anna</i></div>
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This is such a friendly town. Last night as I was hobbling through the square the woman from the tourist office rushed out to ask me how I went at the physio, and just now, as I was walking to a bar for lunch the lovely woman who served me at the Cathedral Museum stopped on her bike to ask me how I was. She heard me sing and it gave her Goosebumps - I'm taking that as a compliment!<br />
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This blog post has been written over two days - I hope you can follow it ok. I'm off now to catch the train and catch up with Pam and Julie. Till next time......Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-42745411666574361982016-09-26T09:12:00.001-07:002016-09-26T09:12:50.228-07:00Now walking along the Rio EbroLeaving <b><i>Logroño</i></b> was just as I expected! The night had been long and noisy, and as we left, the streets were still busy, with many people yet to head home! We actually caught the bus out of the suburbs to the village of <b><i>Varea</i></b>, making life easier by not trudging along endless streets. We shared the bus with at least 7 young people who had yet to get home from the celebrations! Both Julie and Pam had a very poor night's sleep with the endless noise from the street below, and even beyond our street.<br />
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<i>The simple little church at </i><b><i>Varea</i></b><i>.</i></div>
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Each day brings a new treat. The treat yesterday was coming into the village of <b><i>Agoncillo</i></b>. We knew nothing about this village and the walk into the village itself seemed endless as we headed towards the Church, where we were hoping there would be a bar. We not only found a bar, but a very old church AND a castle, complete with what was once a moat.<br />
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<i>The castle, with its moat, and the church in the background at </i><b><i>Agoncillo.</i></b></div>
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We had a lovely break watching the many people out and about on a Sunday, and those who were returning from what appeared to be a special mass. There were throngs of people everywhere. Added to the surprise of seeing a castle where we least expected it, was my delight in seeing my first stork's nest on this trip. They truly are a delight, so big, and usually several in close proximity.<br />
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<i>Our lunch spot in <b>Agoncillo</b></i></div>
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<i>The church tower in <b>Agoncillo</b>, with stork's nests atop. Note the ever widening crack between the tower and church building</i></div>
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<i>Just a couple of stork's nests.</i></div>
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It wasn't all beer and Skittles yesterday though, as we had to contend with the noise of a very busy road for a few kilometres. We passed 2 female pilgrims from Norway and 2 males from Italy - all heading in the opposite direction. We heard from them about how good the albergue was in <b><i>Arrúbal</i></b> and I was quite glad that we had decided to push onto there as they were right, it is very high standard albergue, especially for a municipal one. It even had television, on which Julie & I watched a fabulous programme of Basque music - lovely! <br />
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<i>Walking towards <b>Arrúbal</b>.</i></div>
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<i>The municipal albergue, below the church at <b>Arrúbal</b>.....</i></div>
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<i>... and the church at night.</i></div>
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<i>The view from outside the albergue, with clouds rolling off the mountains.</i></div>
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Today we set off in the cool morning air. After a few kilometres we struck the <b><i>Rio Ebro</i></b> close by and it has been our companion on and off all day. We have walked past vineyards, orchards, and fields of white asparagus.<br />
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<i>Rio Ebro.</i></div>
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The real treat today though has been the vultures. As we were heading towards <b><i>Alcanadre</i></b>, our destination for the night, we passed the <b><i>Peñas de Aradon </i></b>cliffs. It is here that the vultures nest. Watching them take off, and come into land on these cliffs was a special joy. They are huge birds with a wing span of around two and a half metres and with a body length of about a metre. Even from a distance of about 800 metres or so, we could clearly see them with the naked eye. Watching them was quite a distraction as we walked!<br />
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<i>Pam silhouetted in the morning sun.</i></div>
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<i>Julie heading towards the <b>Peñas de Aradon</b> cliffs.</i></div>
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<i>Just some of the white asparagus in a field at the foot of the cliffs.</i></div>
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<i>The <b>Peñas de Aradon</b> cliffs were fascinating, no doubt comprised of very friable soil, but the vultures made them even more so (look carefully and you can see two atop this portion of cliff)</i></div>
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<i>It is amazing that these massive birds can be seen so clearly from a distance.</i></div>
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Our notes said that the only accommodation here was in a little albergue, but over lunch we heard about la Casa Azul, the blue house (because it's painted blue on the outside) and that it was only €60. We have opted for a bit of comfort, and some wifi! We have done the washing, and tonight no doubt over dinner, we have some extra company as our fellow pilgrim Phillippe has just arrived.<br />
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Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-66974016474209331752016-09-24T14:53:00.001-07:002016-09-24T14:53:44.204-07:00Another festival, this time in Logrrono.The grape harvest is about to start, and here in Navarra they way it is marked is to have a festival! Presumably when the harvest ends there will be another celebration of some sort. The crowds are huge here, and again we had trouble getting a bed, but Pam and Julie did well and sorted one for us.<br />
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Bands played this afternoon in the streets (so Pam and Julie tell me) and this evening bands have been marching past our window along with throngs of people. Even as I write the bands are still parading past and wonderful sounds of a brass band float up to us. The noise is fairly cacophonous, especially in the square where a rock band was playing on a stage.<br />
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Julie has just said that the noise should stop soon (it's 10.30) - I had to enlighten her. It will be interesting to see when it stops, but judging on past experience I am assuming it well may be 2-3 am, and we will probably pass stragglers going home when we are heading out. The Spanish know how to enjoy themselves! I have to say I am just loving all this brass music. The bands seem to play randomly, with no apparent conductor, and meander down the street with their friends interspersed among them - it appears a complete schermozzle, but the sound isn't affected at all.<br />
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<i>The view from our window, two stories up.....</i></div>
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......<i>and from the street.</i></div>
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Today we left <i><b>Fuenmayor</b></i> quite early in the morning. The sun had not long poked it's head up and the air was wonderfully fresh. We had trouble finding the path though - not a good start. The Guardia Civil stopped and tried to help us, trying to send us on the Camino de Santiago while we adamant we were on the Camino Ignaciano. They were unable to help us find the path, but insisted we go by the road, which we did, though we did a slight detour manoeuvre, walking along one edge of the vines.<br />
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<i>The church in <b>Fuenmayor</b>.</i></div>
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<i>Walking alonmg the edge of the vineyards.</i></div>
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<i>.....and ready for the harvest.</i></div>
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<b><i>Navarette</i></b> is on the Camino de Santiago and as we came into the town we cast our eye along the path from Logroño and saw the dozens of pilgrims already on the road. I think it was a bit enlightening for Julie, and though Pam and I had seen it before, it still feels odd joining the crowds after being so few on our way. On arriving at Navarette we had a second breakfast and a look in the Church, which was open and despite two previous visits Pam had never been able to see it. I remember singing in the Church back in 2007.<br />
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<i>A manuscript on display in the church at Navarette</i></div>
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<i>The golden retablo in the church at Navarette.</i></div>
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<i>Just some of the tide of pilgrims coming into Navarette.</i></div>
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<i>Navarette</i></div>
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After some discussion Julie & Pam decided to catch the bus to <i><b>Logroño</b></i>. This saved knees and feet. I walked against the flow of pilgrims and counted in excess of 125, having lost count while I had a refreshment break. This didn't take into account the dozens upon dozens that arrived while we were in Navarette. The pilgrims walking towards me were of all shapes and sizes, all ages, and many nationalities. Some walked with confidence, no doubt reaching their destination in good time, while others limped and hobbled as they painfully inched their way towards Santiago.<br />
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<i>Arriving on Logroño</i></div>
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I'm so glad I had an opportunity to walk the Camino "backwards" - against the flow. I saw not only the people, but the scenery, in a new light.<br />
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<i>I saw this sign in a different light. Every other time I have seen it from behind - with all the scaffolding that you can see near it's legs.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA9Z8BNR17lYTxoKnirtJL6r6QuHFk1bDiBBRNYVjFMBTIASXgx-E6xB0F1ojMkqkZeq7pqudFbCHppBDXUQ715_CP1b0Twm32KmrigJKztTcCURknaCMC-TCRgEDNUJCdKBROZI1XS9u7/s1600/20160925042144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA9Z8BNR17lYTxoKnirtJL6r6QuHFk1bDiBBRNYVjFMBTIASXgx-E6xB0F1ojMkqkZeq7pqudFbCHppBDXUQ715_CP1b0Twm32KmrigJKztTcCURknaCMC-TCRgEDNUJCdKBROZI1XS9u7/s400/20160925042144.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Along this part of the Camino there is a fence about 800metres long and in pilgrims have, over the years, entwined crosses.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNfLpTb9ZHl9xWotaEchDreqWxhBuqjCwnX3BpPJhQw9CJyFXPdg0jqqKwpzLGeW_cZp0oKF3uuDoiybE1fgqcCjh4Cxhk3DmNV25sQKqFQbASDl_A5bDRrEbiagr4g01A7L3zdEslA2NK/s1600/20160925042010.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNfLpTb9ZHl9xWotaEchDreqWxhBuqjCwnX3BpPJhQw9CJyFXPdg0jqqKwpzLGeW_cZp0oKF3uuDoiybE1fgqcCjh4Cxhk3DmNV25sQKqFQbASDl_A5bDRrEbiagr4g01A7L3zdEslA2NK/s400/20160925042010.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Looking towards Logroño, with the reservoir in the foreground and beside which I had a leisurely lunch.</div>
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I need to apologise to friends who have left comments and received no reply. I have found WiFi painfully slow and have had to make a choice with either doing a new post, or taking that time to reply. I know you will all understand and feel reasonably confident that you can all cope!</div>
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<br />Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-21337449542812219702016-09-24T09:09:00.000-07:002016-09-24T09:09:42.457-07:00A shortage of beds in Laguardia............... and so we are in <b><i>Fuenmayor</i></b>, staying in a very swish apartment with three bedrooms which means we each have a room to ourselves tonight.<br />
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I began walking from <b><i>Genevilla</i></b> soon after 8.30 this morning, leaving Pam and Julie behind as they had decided to give the mountain a miss. Instead they caught a lift with Guy (pronounced Gee), our host for last night. The plan was that he would drop them at the village of <b><i>Kripán</i></b>, from where they would walk the last 11.5 kms. I planned, and did, walk the 27 kms. The only thing is that we all got lost, and consequently I walked just over 29kms!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRYdYL1a0fVzRgXDfD3CibZlQ0frmcKI-a71enNF5CuE0mNW-1IBD23UTLlKUlC63BCSVEiBC1ZWKKGD6zePuGp-eFB6pSoxyWoAddkZiOJAF35gjNUCK7PfKNu-5Ko-G1mMc-AL8f8z6E/s1600/20160924022621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRYdYL1a0fVzRgXDfD3CibZlQ0frmcKI-a71enNF5CuE0mNW-1IBD23UTLlKUlC63BCSVEiBC1ZWKKGD6zePuGp-eFB6pSoxyWoAddkZiOJAF35gjNUCK7PfKNu-5Ko-G1mMc-AL8f8z6E/s400/20160924022621.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Sue and Jeremy heading into <b>Cabredo</b>. It was soon after this that we started climbing the mountain.</i></div>
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<i>The view from the the top looking back towards where we stayed.</i></div>
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<i>The path after leaving </i><b><i>Lapoblación</i></b><i> skirts around the bottom of the mountains, more or less following the contours.</i></div>
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There was one stetch, only small, of about 1.5 kms where the signs disappeared altogether, just after the village of Kripán. The directions said to follow an indistinct path, which I did for quite a while, pushing my way through a prickly scrub until prudence took over and I retraced my steps. I had been walking with Jeremy and Sue (two walkers, though not on our way, that stayed with us last night) on and off throughout the morning and so I waited for them to appear after their lunch break and made use of their superior directions along with the GPS that Jeremy had. We found our way, as it transpired did Pam & Julie - with the help of a phone call to Guy. Phillipe, our French pilgrim friend, managed to get lost not only here, but in another place as well and went many kilometres out of his way.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoKQx_r0S87mpS7-nAqKlCWnB8mI0Qtxs3MoB3gdYTz9zACRJcX4p12ampON7sAUXoyPef57ggOKpzpRrjPK-zFTUoNxZ-bxjzZqV3oURFY3AyEtZ9aWlpIZerDa4ZCONbln0q_ilAMWhi/s1600/20160924022005.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoKQx_r0S87mpS7-nAqKlCWnB8mI0Qtxs3MoB3gdYTz9zACRJcX4p12ampON7sAUXoyPef57ggOKpzpRrjPK-zFTUoNxZ-bxjzZqV3oURFY3AyEtZ9aWlpIZerDa4ZCONbln0q_ilAMWhi/s320/20160924022005.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Looking across to the hot dusty road along which we trudged, and to the view beyond.</i></div>
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<i>Again, looking back, this time from <b>Laguardia</b> to the distant village that had been a lunch stop</i></div>
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<i>Sue & Jeremy exploring the village of <b>Kripán</b>. It was soon after this that I got lost, as did Phillippe, and Pam & Julie! </i></div>
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<i>Somehow I got ahead of Sue & Jeremy and didn't get a chance to thank them for sharing my day. I hope they read this and know how grateful I was.</i></div>
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Climbing the mountain during the overcast morning was easy compared to the afternoon of walking on an undulating dirt road in the blazing sun. By the time I walked into <b><i>Laguardia</i></b> I had abandoned any thoughts of walking on to Fuenmayor and after having some refreshments I organised to catch a taxi the 15 kms there, which Pam and Julie had done a few hours earlier.<br />
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There were a couple of treats today. One was seeing the red peppers (or maybe chilli's) hanging from windows to dry in the sun. The other was seeing a couple of flocks of sheep in the fields, and in particular having to wait for one to pass by as it was being led by the shepherd onto the fields. This is one of my favourite sights in Spain but I have never actually had to negotiate the flock as I had to today.<br />
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<i>Chilli's hanging from a first floor window and drying in the sun.</i></div>
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<i>The shepherd leading his flock, on the outskirts of <b>Meano</b>.</i></div>
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<i>The flock not only had sheep but a good sprinkling of goats, numerous dogs, and three mules.</i></div>
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<b><i>Laguardia</i></b> is a lovely town - very old and on top of a mesa, a flat topped hill of which there are a number in this region. This has been the last day of walking in the Pyrenees. Now we are in Navarra and the scenery is predominantly vineyards (and bodegas - the wineries). Tomorrow we continue in wine territory - though there is only one of the three of us who partakes!<br />
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<i>We by-passed the village of <b>Meano</b>, cutting across the upper side of it. This meant we looked down on the roofs!</i></div>
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<br />Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-55163771070753875752016-09-22T14:08:00.003-07:002016-09-22T14:08:31.272-07:00San Roman to Genevilla - over two days.We had a bed in a truckies hotel on the outskirts of San Roman. It was comfortable and quiet - in our room, but downstairs it was noisy and boisterous.<br />
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We didn't rush departure on the next day as there was a heavy mist and the path went up another mountain, and our guidebook said to take care as we were to walk beside a ravine. As it turned out, the sun had burned the mist away by the time we reached the top, and the translation in our notes was not quite accurate. We had visions of walking along a ridge with sharp drops on either side, but instead we walked along the edge of what Julie and I decided were precipitous cliffs. This was a beautiful walk indeed - stunning views, silence - apart from the occasional bird call, and pleasant temperatures. The notes we had warned us that the signs were difficult to follow, but we kept our wits about us and all was well except in one tricky spot.<br />
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<i>Looking back towards San Roman with the mist still thick in the valley</i></div>
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<i>Just one view from near the edge of the cliff</i></div>
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<i>Crocus growing on the cliff edge, and, looking beyond across the valley. San Roman would be on the left just out of sight.</i></div>
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<i>Still on the cliff edge. The grass looked like it had been mown and the trees clung on very close to the edge.</i></div>
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<i>It was at this point that we lost the signs momentarily as Pam and Julie try to see one - in vain. We ended up crossing the meadow in the top left of the picture, and eventually picked up the trail.</i></div>
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This was a pretty tough day, because in addition to the cliff top walk we had to slither our way up the mountain, for over a kilometre, through some heavy clay mud which made us not only very dirty, but also quite a bit taller!<br />
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We ended the day at a delightful agritourismo abode in Alda, hosted by Faustino. Here we had a restful night as there was nothing to do except eat, sleep, and talk. We spent a bit of time with Phillippe, the French pilgrim who left on the same day as us.<br />
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<i>Our Casa Rural, our agritourismo accommodation for the night.</i></div>
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We left this morning at about 9.00am, with our destination being Genevilla. Today's walking has been pretty easy as we have mostly been in sheltered forests. It is so much easier to walk in shade when the sun is boring down.<br />
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<i>Heading towards San Vicente.</i></div>
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<i>San Vicente in the early morning light.</i></div>
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<i>The mountains around here have quite sheer rock cliffs.</i></div>
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Some of the forests were Holm Oak, and walking into the village of Santa Cruz de Campezo we put two and two together and worked out why the houses are so big. The first thing we noticed was a kennel with many truffle dogs. We saw one of them being trained. We also noticed a number of properties that had a Holm Oak "forest" as their front, fenced garden. We decided the only reason to have such a garden would be to hunt for truffles! Certainly the town seems quite well off.<br />
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<i>Walking through the Holm Oak forest.</i></div>
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<i>Julie walking in Santa Cruz</i></div>
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Tonight we are in another Casa Rural and have just returned from a "secret" restaurant where we had one of the best pilgrim meals I have ever had. We called it "secret" because our host escorted us to it where upon he knocked on the door and we were ushered in!<br />
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Bed calls. The others are asleep as I write, now it's my turn.<br />
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<br />Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-42825771385580019322016-09-22T09:52:00.002-07:002016-09-22T09:52:44.901-07:00Arantzazu to San RomanToday has been another mountainous day. One longish uphill slog, and a mainly downhill run, with the odd short uphill thrown in for good measure.<br />
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Julie and Pam headed up the hill in the mist after breakfast, while I headed back down the hill to see the views I'd missed yesterday, and to visit the church, which I had also missed. By the time I did my exploring I was an hour behind. It meant though, that I was able to discard my raincoat before ascending and was much more comfortable. <br />
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<i>The extraordinary church at Arantzazu. The bell tower is the seperate tower on the left, and below a mix of concrete and stones in the cloisters.</i></div>
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<i>Our room was in the big white hotel on the right.</i></div>
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<i>A small portion of the amazing views ay Arantzazu.</i></div>
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The mist cleared as I neared the top, and I was able to get some reasonable photos. As I left Arantzazu there was a crowd of young people gathering in the car park. Some of them caught me up just over 5 kms later at the Ermita de Urbia, and the rest trailed in a little further down the track at the Refugio de Urbia. It transpired that they were from an agricultural school on a school excursion - studying shepherds and the large flocks in the mountains.<br />
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<i>A small part of the school excursion, taking a photo of themselves.</i></div>
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<i>One flock of sheep we passed grazing in the meadows</i></div>
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<i>After crossing the pass, the path was treelined.</i></div>
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The path all day today was wide and comfortable walking - except for the last few kilometres which were on bitumen. The orange arrows which we'd been following were frequent enough to keep us on track, though as we came through the village of Araia they petered out for a while, keeping us on our toes.<br />
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<i>A shepherds hut, complete with grass growing on the roof, and a couple of solar panels.</i></div>
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<i>Pam and Julie partaking of a picnic lunch - where I finally caught up with them.</i></div>
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It was lovely crossing the meadows and hearing the various bells of the animals. Old shepherds huts had a few mod cons - saw a solar panel on one. There were photos at the Refugio, where I stopped for a coffee, showing some of the big snow falls they'd had in recent times. This wouldn't be a place to visit in winter for me!<br />
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The last leg into San Roman was a treat because we kept passing pink crocus. They brightened the way no end, especially as by the last few kilometres we were feeling pretty tired. The other thing of interest for you Camino people out there was the way crossed over the Camino coming through the San Anton tunnel. We actually followed both yellow (Camino de Santiago colour) and orange (Camino Ignaciano colour) arrows for quite a while.<br />
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<i>Crocus in bloom.</i></div>
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<i>The Camino de Santiago sign</i></div>
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<i>This is where the other Camino joined ours for a while - the orange arrow above the yellow is not as easy to see.</i></div>
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This post was written a few days ago, but not published because of internet limitations. I will try and do anther post tonight to bring things up to date.Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-21303180881192521932016-09-18T13:43:00.000-07:002016-09-18T13:43:30.593-07:00Zumarraga, and a nearby festival of dance.Wow! That's all I can say about the last few hours! I think I'd best start with the end and go backwards. Tonight we are in the village of <b><i>Zumarraga</i></b>, a small one according to the tourist office lady, but we three think it is a sizeable town!<br />
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The day, though misty and overcast, was a good introduction to the Camino Ignaciano, as it was following an old railway line, complete with around 21 tunnels of varying lengths from about 25 metres to three longish ones of about 400 - 500 metres. I say about 21 because half way through I lost count.<br />
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<i>There was only one chance for a coffee break this morning - in the village of Azcoitia.</i></div>
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<i>Julie entering o</i><i>ne of the many tunnels.</i></div>
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Towards the end of this day we walked through the village of <b><i>Urretxu</i></b> and it was humming! We had to wend our way through throngs of traditionally dressed Basque men, women and children. A dance festival was on and people were there in their thousands. Music blared from all directions, all of it traditional.<br />
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<i>Oxen pulled the many floats, they too having been dressed in their traditional best.</i></div>
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<i>The giant puppets were fun</i></div>
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After checking into our pension and having a rest we made our way down the street for a late lunch / early tea. We didn't have the energy to make our way backwards to see all the action which was fortunate, as it turned out the action came to us!<br />
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There was a huge procession with bands of all descriptions, mostly tradional and using traditional instruments, though there were also a couple of brass bands. There was also a sprinkling of other traditions too - from places like Paraguay and closer to home Galicia.<br />
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It is a source of wonder looking at these festivals. The first thing that strikes me is that the whole family are involved, from the very young age of maybe 2 or 3, mimicking their parents. The other thing that stands out so dramatically is the number of 15 - 30 year old usicians in the bands, playing well - a huge variety of traditional instruments, or dancing in the street. All are dressed in traditional clothes (although sometimes sneakers are worn rather than the traditional rope soled canvas pumps), proudly displaying their heritage, and having a great time doing it. It is hard to imagine many in the same age bracket doing the same at home - yes they might play, sing, or dance in groups, but to parade around the streets in lacy shirts and black pin striped trousers topped with a black waistcoat, cumberband and beret is an unlikely scenario!<br />
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<i>These boys even hold the staff / stick used to manage the oxen just like Dad!</i></div>
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Enough of the festival. Suffice to say I have loved it. <br />
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Loyola! Our first task was to visit the Sancuario and purchase our credencials. We then picked up maps and got directions to the convent albergue - our accommodation for the night. We arrived yesterday morning spending the day exploring, in between heavy rain showers, when we took shelter under verandahs, in churches, and in bars. Nothing was open at one point over siesta time and so we resorted to a coffee in a bar for an hour or more - it's a tough life.<br />
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<i>Siesta time in Loyola.</i></div>
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<i>The convent in which the albergue was situated.</i></div>
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<i>The Basilica at Loyola.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLrufI5-zMdSPS_dYW6DoQCllqy3ClsbqeHeMBHMmRCOPBlkYUjlR2qAbgHM53dHWQWEv-9q1XyN5s-F2O5uwZ19B22_USm0y-53LJ4HD4pQYuVmUQhRd0ufzRh0qXa3cG0EtfbAmWTWE/s1600/20160918053632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLrufI5-zMdSPS_dYW6DoQCllqy3ClsbqeHeMBHMmRCOPBlkYUjlR2qAbgHM53dHWQWEv-9q1XyN5s-F2O5uwZ19B22_USm0y-53LJ4HD4pQYuVmUQhRd0ufzRh0qXa3cG0EtfbAmWTWE/s400/20160918053632.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The Room in which Saint Ignatius was born.</i></div>
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<b><i>Loyola</i></b> and mthe adjoining village of <b><i>Aezpeitia</i></b> are lovely villages. I was surprised, though I shouldn't have been, at the number of houses displaying mudjedahar characteristics. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibSIksMpI9gjspfS2Y1pxniSZsjSr_Ry_53VP4xMVCg8ziFocciroVOXnN7PtDgtKIMRsaEDtI5hTiiPnSZUbshTl2wmeSSf94jMqt3YiJp9Ktj4H__-hSMpuzXz0_fJR4Ni-giRqnvDEv/s1600/20160918053854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibSIksMpI9gjspfS2Y1pxniSZsjSr_Ry_53VP4xMVCg8ziFocciroVOXnN7PtDgtKIMRsaEDtI5hTiiPnSZUbshTl2wmeSSf94jMqt3YiJp9Ktj4H__-hSMpuzXz0_fJR4Ni-giRqnvDEv/s400/20160918053854.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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It is late now, bed calls and so I will tell you more about Saint Ignatius in a future post. <br />
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<br />Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4560855729292711669.post-53746548131893331072016-09-16T14:14:00.001-07:002016-09-16T14:14:29.049-07:00From Barcelona to San Sebastian, and tomorrow......We arrived in Barcelona yesterday and today made our way by train to San Sebastian where we are spending tonight, before heading up into the mountains to Loyola.<br />
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We had a good flight over, getting some sleep - Julie & Pam more than me, reaching Doha almost an hour early. We arrived in Barcelona pretty much on time, and leaving the airport we managed to find a place to by our gold cards -<i>tarjeta dorado - </i>which allows those of somewhat senior years to travel considerably cheaper on certain trains!<br />
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After settling into our hotel and starting the process of re-organizing our packs we then set about our various tasks. Pam went off to spend a few hours with some English cousins who just happened to be near Barcelona, and Julie & I set off to find a chemist to buy some bandaids (which we both forgot to put in our pack!) and to find something to eat. We treated ourselves to some tapas for dinner - croquettes, little fried sardinnes, queso with quince sauce AND best of all <i style="color: #252525; font-family: "helvetica neue", helvetica, "nimbus sans l", arial, "liberation sans", sans-serif;">pimiento de Padrón.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TTt5isdjRVp9rz5KbJm6fZzpRBAgmjl4Nqive-gw3dXSU7_ZCBnZlK-1d0qHo1qSAvFXb9WtjdU-2hLMI7GxGLBkwpxJxMXRGCv3hXlzX1GAeVyfSpn9qM3vsE657iNu42EEvhcQ1qnB/s1600/20160916230745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TTt5isdjRVp9rz5KbJm6fZzpRBAgmjl4Nqive-gw3dXSU7_ZCBnZlK-1d0qHo1qSAvFXb9WtjdU-2hLMI7GxGLBkwpxJxMXRGCv3hXlzX1GAeVyfSpn9qM3vsE657iNu42EEvhcQ1qnB/s320/20160916230745.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Julie (left) and I with our tapas.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD1qgXxlUXiC6bC23rnOCoToXG4naRKO7jpvJ1UiRtLf52VeqXyTrwdIY44nBCxRrracD-FX-m-OTp4dffSJGRRDkFwG1D0D-4NbC0am7Uro8xZdMQ1rEOxr6VljvAnmM8Wamhx_rxlbF1/s1600/20160916230812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD1qgXxlUXiC6bC23rnOCoToXG4naRKO7jpvJ1UiRtLf52VeqXyTrwdIY44nBCxRrracD-FX-m-OTp4dffSJGRRDkFwG1D0D-4NbC0am7Uro8xZdMQ1rEOxr6VljvAnmM8Wamhx_rxlbF1/s320/20160916230812.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<i style="color: #252525; font-family: "helvetica neue", helvetica, "nimbus sans l", arial, "liberation sans", sans-serif;">A fountain in Barcelona - on our way to the tapas Bar!</i></div>
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Today we caught the train to San Sebastian arriving at 1.00 which has allowed us plenty of time to meander around, in between the showers. We are in Basque territory now, and today we have dined on pinchos rather than tapas, though they are the same thing, just a different name. We have meandered along the famous la Concha beach, so named because of its shell shape.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi46JmjmZge_dtwRHvtpx6Yezi1_fYoVUNyNJGF-UwXze6jftvwXqS-GIiUBnZuNTO_pK0UK2oeRRfNBnPvnoTZkV21bOD35hRs163PzVmI6FhXZLevBQZBY-_-U4HIHK8x3FIOU5J0BYRz/s1600/20160917022142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi46JmjmZge_dtwRHvtpx6Yezi1_fYoVUNyNJGF-UwXze6jftvwXqS-GIiUBnZuNTO_pK0UK2oeRRfNBnPvnoTZkV21bOD35hRs163PzVmI6FhXZLevBQZBY-_-U4HIHK8x3FIOU5J0BYRz/s320/20160917022142.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>The famous La Concha beach, San Sebastian</i></div>
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It's an early night for us and tomorrow we will explore Loyola having just one more day of rest before tackling the Basque mountains.<br />
<br />Janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10681460663682338784noreply@blogger.com1